Big wave surfing

jezza1918

Member
SoSH Member
Jul 19, 2005
2,944
South Dartmouth, MA
That's funny. I hadn't checked this thread in a while, but this past Thursday, I was on a Jetblue flight home from Aruba, took a couple edibles, and when I turned on the television, one of the "shows" they had available was this documentary. I basically spent the next 4 hours completely engrossed in it. I've never surfed either, but these guys are awesome and fucking crazy.
I wouldn’t bother watching the entire thing again, but you might want to watch the opening episode again on a big screen. Have to imagine the airplane tv takes away from some of the magnitude of it all
 

InstaFace

The Ultimate One
SoSH Member
Sep 27, 2016
22,915
Pittsburgh, PA
Kelly Slater gave up his spot in the Eddie to allow a longtime local to compete for the first time ever.

From what I understand, the hydrography of Waimea Bay is such that its water is entirely placid, up until the swells along the north shore get to like 25', at which point it somehow crosses whatever boundary otherwise keeping the bay sheltered and gets absolutely nuts. The waves for the Eddie were 40-50' high, which having seen like 20-25' waves up close (from shore) is just mind-blowing to me. And if you ride the direction of the roll, toward viewer's left (surfer's right), you end up hammered against some rocks before the wave peters out.

Found some highlights:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJycBaw4bYU


I gotta say, the drone footage is so much better than the old camera angles they used to get, mostly from the cliffs on the west side of the bay. You used to have that angle, the shore angle, and maybe some crazy jetski operator with a GoPro, but it was never super clear. Now in 2023, with the drones and stabilizers and such, it's just come such a long way.
 

Dogman

Yukon Cornelius
Moderator
SoSH Member
Mar 19, 2004
15,239
Missoula, MT
60372

Mid-October walking Waimea. I spoke with the guard in the picture because they had posted the signs you see warning swimmers that the waves were now approaching "winter sets", as he termed it. He mentioned they were waiting for the 30 footers and, as I walked away, this wave behind me broke on the shore. I turned back to the guard just after this pic was taken and he said, "that's a 30 footer". It was absolutely nuts.