2015 SoSH Golf Thread

[jercra]

 
You're in the Boston area, right? Go to Joe & Leigh's in South Easton and get fitted. They will credit the cost of your fitting towards the set you buy. All it will cost you is an hour of your time. They will fit you on length, lie, shaft flex, grip size, everything. Talk to him about your game and try out four or five different models to start. They will set you up on a Tracman and start eliminating clubs one at a time, based on your feel and the stats. Try not to have any brand biases when you walk in and just trust him and the numbers. Profit. 

Don't go in cold if you can avoid it. Play a few rounds in the days before getting fit. Hit a small bucket before getting fit. You really want to be fitted for the closest thing to "your" swing and not just the swing you have randomly during the fitting, if that makes sense.

Also, don't worry about game improvement clubs vs any other clubs. In drivers it means 460 head, higher spin and usually higher launch. High handicappers tend to struggle with distance. All of those things are meant to increase distance at lower swing speeds. Irons are about lowering the CG and making, upping the bounce and making a bigger cavity back face. This prevents digging, increases launch angle and gives a bigger surface for mishits. If you stroke your irons at all then you're fine with basically any clubhead style.

 

[FL4WL3SS]

Honestly, if you're not a single digit (or even low single digit) handicap the club probably doesn't really matter all that much. You don't make solid contact consistently enough for it to make much of a difference. The things you should be concentrating on are length/lie of the club and having the correct shaft for your swing speed and release pattern.
 
All of the clubs out there these days are good and you have to nitpick to find differences, but having the correct 'fit' of the club is really where the difference is made up. Buy a club head that looks good to you at address and then get fitted for the right shaft.
 
Before you go get fitted, work on your setup to make sure you're setting up to the ball consistently from shot to shot. This is more important as it will help with the fitting process. Setup is the #1 thing that is overlooked, but is probably top of the list of things that can make or break a swing.

 

[Phragle]

Yeah? I was thinking the opposite. I want my mishits to at least stay out of the woods. I'm going to mishit more often if the sweet spot is smaller, no?
 
On top of the inconsistency/SSS/variance issue, I'm also worried that the simulator is too easy. It's relatively easy to smash in perfect conditions off a perfectly level simulator. On the course it's harder. It's never just you and the ball. There are shitty lies, slopes, the rough, etc.
 
Hopefully I'll get to the simulator today and record all the results.

 

[jercra]

Honestly, if you're not a single digit (or even low single digit) handicap the club probably doesn't really matter all that much. You don't make solid contact consistently enough for it to make much of a difference. The things you should be concentrating on are length/lie of the club and having the correct shaft for your swing speed and release pattern.
 
All of the clubs out there these days are good and you have to nitpick to find differences, but having the correct 'fit' of the club is really where the difference is made up. Buy a club head that looks good to you at address and then get fitted for the right shaft.
 
Before you go get fitted, work on your setup to make sure you're setting up to the ball consistently from shot to shot. This is more important as it will help with the fitting process. Setup is the #1 thing that is overlooked, but is probably top of the list of things that can make or break a swing.

Don't forget swingweight.  It's extremely important.  You can have a great shaft but if it's D4 and you can't swing more than D1 you'll have poor results.

 

[Papelbon's Poutine]

Honestly, if you're not a single digit (or even low single digit) handicap the club probably doesn't really matter all that much. You don't make solid contact consistently enough for it to make much of a difference. The things you should be concentrating on are length/lie of the club and having the correct shaft for your swing speed and release pattern.
 
All of the clubs out there these days are good and you have to nitpick to find differences, but having the correct 'fit' of the club is really where the difference is made up. Buy a club head that looks good to you at address and then get fitted for the right shaft.
 
Before you go get fitted, work on your setup to make sure you're setting up to the ball consistently from shot to shot. This is more important as it will help with the fitting process. Setup is the #1 thing that is overlooked, but is probably top of the list of things that can make or break a swing.

 
While I agree with the rest of your post, I think the bolded is a pretty broad oversimplification of club technology. It's not like he should go out and buy a set of muscle backs or blades. Perimeter weighted clubs with a bigger sweet spot will certainly help his shot dispersion on mishits and help maintain a bigger portion of his distance in those cases. 
 
As you state, his shaft flex, loft, lie and ball position are all important factors, the combination of them probably outweighing anything else. But saying that the club head doesn't make a difference because he's not a low single digit handicapper I think is misguiding. I would argue that exactly because of the fact that he isn't as consistent with his striking, the club is very important. A scratch golfer can go play with anything and while he may be limited on shot shaping, he can approximate his score. A 20 handicapper with a set of MBs is going to shoot 150. 

 

[Phragle]

 
 
I think I'm going with the G25s. The distance difference in the 3 hybrids is too big for one, I prefer the launch and RPMs a little more, and the G25 4H had an outlier factored in that hurt the ball speed and carry a bit. The G25 generally went farther. Plus I get the piece of mind that they were designed for a hacker. I liked both of these clubs more than the other hybrids I tried.

 

[FL4WL3SS]

 
While I agree with the rest of your post, I think the bolded is a pretty broad oversimplification of club technology. It's not like he should go out and buy a set of muscle backs or blades. Perimeter weighted clubs with a bigger sweet spot will certainly help his shot dispersion on mishits and help maintain a bigger portion of his distance in those cases. 
 
As you state, his shaft flex, loft, lie and ball position are all important factors, the combination of them probably outweighing anything else. But saying that the club head doesn't make a difference because he's not a low single digit handicapper I think is misguiding. I would argue that exactly because of the fact that he isn't as consistent with his striking, the club is very important. A scratch golfer can go play with anything and while he may be limited on shot shaping, he can approximate his score. A 20 handicapper with a set of MBs is going to shoot 150. 

Muscle back and blade are the same thing and they're really not that much harder to hit.

And he was talking about a diver, but my point stands for irons that are in the same class, i.e. game improvement v. players irons.

 

[Papelbon's Poutine]

Muscle back and blade are the same thing and they're really not that much harder to hit.

And he was talking about a diver, but my point stands for irons that are in the same class, i.e. game improvement v. players irons.

 
MBs are a type of blade, they are not necessarily the same thing. And for a guy that proclaimed himself as a "hacker" I would disagree with your assessment that they wouldn't really be harder to hit for him. i know you're a single digit, so they might not be for you. But for someone who has the inconsistencies you quoted, they are. The two divisions (GI and PI) are slowly morphing towards each other, so it's not the divide it used to be, but it is certainly there. 
 
And we were both wrong, he was talking about hybrids judging by his last post. (Ping and their damn product lines that cover everything from driver to wedge!!) Specifically to a driver, yes, I would agree with you that the difference between the heads wouldn't make as much of a difference.
 
Irons, no, and there's reams of articles, data and reviews that agree. Unless you want to claim that's all bunk marketing. So we will just have to agree to disagree on that.

 

[FL4WL3SS]

OK

 

[Zomp]

So after demoing one yesterday and being able to pick one up very cheap brand new, I am now the owner of a Tour Issued SLDR Mini driver, 10.5'.
 
 
The problem is, its the head only so I need shaft.  Opinions vary on what can be done, but I just want to make sure my thinking is correct.  My driver is 45.5', my 3 wood is (I believe) 43.5 inches.  
 
When I'm looking at shafts online, there is virtually no difference between a 3-wood and a driver shaft right?  Its just the cut length of the shaft right?  
 
I'm trying to decide what length to cut it, and since its not the new technology where the shafts switch out, I need to be sure.  I'm thinking of going for 45', which is the old standard driver length because I'll primarily be using this off the tee.

 

[bostonbeerbelly]

I am looking for some practice tips if anyone could help. I can get to the range 2-4 times a week and usually have at least 30 minutes to practice before I hit the first tee on days that I play. 
 
I feel that I am not doing enough on the range to help my game as I am picking flags and aiming at them, working my way down through my clubs starting with wedges, and ending with my driver...with the mindset that my last swing should be the next one I am taking on the first tee.  
 
Does anyone have a good "game" they play on the range or putting green, any strategy for what I should be doing. If it makes any difference I am around a 13 handicap. 

 

[Zomp]

After watching the greatest pros from the worst hacks on the range, I can comfortably say everyone is different.  I think 90% of people start with a wedge and hit some chips, half shots, etc... and work their way up.  Tom Watson told my father and I that the first club he hit on the range was a 2 iron....
 
I know what works for me, but again, everyone is different.  I scope the flags at the range with my laser pointer to get the yardages.  After a long stretch routine I start by hitting half and 3/4 shots with my wedges, until I feel like I'm warmed up enough to start taking full swings.  I work down from PW to Driver.  Not hitting every club in my bag, but usually always hitting what I can get to the different targets.
 
I then go back to the first shot I'm going to hit on the day, whether it be driver, stinger 3 wood, full 3 wood, etc... and hit a maximum of 3 of those.  But if the first one is good.  I go.
 
I also START on the putting green, but I'd say thats opposite of most people.

 

[bostonbeerbelly]

Thanks Zomp - completely understand each person is different, just trying to see what others do to get some new ideas for better practice methods. 

 

[jercra]

So after demoing one yesterday and being able to pick one up very cheap brand new, I am now the owner of a Tour Issued SLDR Mini driver, 10.5'.
 
 
The problem is, its the head only so I need shaft.  Opinions vary on what can be done, but I just want to make sure my thinking is correct.  My driver is 45.5', my 3 wood is (I believe) 43.5 inches.  
 
When I'm looking at shafts online, there is virtually no difference between a 3-wood and a driver shaft right?  Its just the cut length of the shaft right?  
 
I'm trying to decide what length to cut it, and since its not the new technology where the shafts switch out, I need to be sure.  I'm thinking of going for 45', which is the old standard driver length because I'll primarily be using this off the tee.

There's not really a difference between 3-wood and driver shafts though you'll find more 3 woods at 350.  The difference will be in the weight of the head.  The lighter head means you need a shorter shaft to keep the swingweight the same.  It's also going to impact how the shaft flexes and kicks.  The SLDR Mini is kind of between driver and 3-wood as I understand it.  I've never hit one or seen one in person.  There's probably a thread on golfwrx with people who have them where you may get a little knowledge from experienced owners.  I'd check there.  If it were me I'd probably be looking more in the 42-43" range.  Longer than 3-wood, shorter than driver.  All butt cut too (unless you normally tip your driver).

 

[Phragle]

MBs are a type of blade, they are not necessarily the same thing. And for a guy that proclaimed himself as a "hacker" I would disagree with your assessment that they wouldn't really be harder to hit for him. i know you're a single digit, so they might not be for you. But for someone who has the inconsistencies you quoted, they are. The two divisions (GI and PI) are slowly morphing towards each other, so it's not the divide it used to be, but it is certainly there. 
 
And we were both wrong, he was talking about hybrids judging by his last post. (Ping and their damn product lines that cover everything from driver to wedge!!) Specifically to a driver, yes, I would agree with you that the difference between the heads wouldn't make as much of a difference.
 
Irons, no, and there's reams of articles, data and reviews that agree. Unless you want to claim that's all bunk marketing. So we will just have to agree to disagree on that.

 
I said hybrids in the first post.
 

So after demoing one yesterday and being able to pick one up very cheap brand new, I am now the owner of a Tour Issued SLDR Mini driver, 10.5'.
 
 
The problem is, its the head only so I need shaft.  Opinions vary on what can be done, but I just want to make sure my thinking is correct.  My driver is 45.5', my 3 wood is (I believe) 43.5 inches.  
 
When I'm looking at shafts online, there is virtually no difference between a 3-wood and a driver shaft right?  Its just the cut length of the shaft right?  
 
I'm trying to decide what length to cut it, and since its not the new technology where the shafts switch out, I need to be sure.  I'm thinking of going for 45', which is the old standard driver length because I'll primarily be using this off the tee.

 
You can always start at 45" and cut it more if you don't like it.
 
So what is the point of the Mini, you need to fill in the gap between your driver and 3 wood?
 

There's not really a difference between 3-wood and driver shafts though you'll find more 3 woods at 350.  The difference will be in the weight of the head.  The lighter head means you need a shorter shaft to keep the swingweight the same.  It's also going to impact how the shaft flexes and kicks.  The SLDR Mini is kind of between driver and 3-wood as I understand it.  I've never hit one or seen one in person.  There's probably a thread on golfwrx with people who have them where you may get a little knowledge from experienced owners.  I'd check there.  If it were me I'd probably be looking more in the 42-43" range.  Longer than 3-wood, shorter than driver.  All butt cut too (unless you normally tip your driver).

 
I believe this is backwards.

 

[barbed wire Bob]

I am looking for some practice tips if anyone could help. I can get to the range 2-4 times a week and usually have at least 30 minutes to practice before I hit the first tee on days that I play. 
 
I feel that I am not doing enough on the range to help my game as I am picking flags and aiming at them, working my way down through my clubs starting with wedges, and ending with my driver...with the mindset that my last swing should be the next one I am taking on the first tee.  
 
Does anyone have a good "game" they play on the range or putting green, any strategy for what I should be doing. If it makes any difference I am around a 13 handicap.

I warm up with a wedge first, then an eight and a six and then a wood. The key words are "warm up" since I try not use that time to practice any swing changes. After that I imagine playing the first three holes while on the driving range. After that, I head to the putting green to clear my my mind. Fwiw this book http://www.amazon.com/Every-Shot-Must-Have-Purpose/dp/1592401570
Has a series of games you can play while on the driving range.

 

[FL4WL3SS]

So after demoing one yesterday and being able to pick one up very cheap brand new, I am now the owner of a Tour Issued SLDR Mini driver, 10.5'.
 
 
The problem is, its the head only so I need shaft.  Opinions vary on what can be done, but I just want to make sure my thinking is correct.  My driver is 45.5', my 3 wood is (I believe) 43.5 inches.  
 
When I'm looking at shafts online, there is virtually no difference between a 3-wood and a driver shaft right?  Its just the cut length of the shaft right?  
 
I'm trying to decide what length to cut it, and since its not the new technology where the shafts switch out, I need to be sure.  I'm thinking of going for 45', which is the old standard driver length because I'll primarily be using this off the tee.

I'd look at something a little shorter, like 44.5 or 44. You won't be the longest guy off the tee, but you'll be in the middle of the fairway all day. That would be a very lethal combination.

 

[FL4WL3SS]

I am looking for some practice tips if anyone could help. I can get to the range 2-4 times a week and usually have at least 30 minutes to practice before I hit the first tee on days that I play. 
 
I feel that I am not doing enough on the range to help my game as I am picking flags and aiming at them, working my way down through my clubs starting with wedges, and ending with my driver...with the mindset that my last swing should be the next one I am taking on the first tee.  
 
Does anyone have a good "game" they play on the range or putting green, any strategy for what I should be doing. If it makes any difference I am around a 13 handicap. 

Warmup and practice are 2 different things. You should think about your goal for that range session and stick to it - so before you go to the range, give yourself a goal. If it's before a round and it's simply to warm up, pick a few clubs that you are most comfortable with and warm up with them to gain some confidence before you go out on the course. It's not the time to work on your swing, so keep the goal of warming up and grooving your swing in mind.
 
If your goal is to practice, figure out what you want to practice before you go. Don't just go to the range blind and hit balls mindlessly at flags. "Today I want to work on tempo" or "Today I want to work on contact and ball flight". Be as specific as you can with your goals and stick to it. After you have your goal figured out, determine what you can do to successfully reach that goal - are there specific drills you can work on? Shot patterns you can hit? Play games with yourself; hit 3 balls at flag 1 and give yourself points for hitting your target or completing your goal and then find another flag and do the same thing. Go through your shot routine on each and every shot.
 

• Set a goal
• Determine how to reach that goal
• Make it entertaining
• Make it as close to the on-course experience as possible

 
The worst thing you can do is continue to pound balls. You'll hit bad shots on the range, but don't immediately pull another ball and keep hitting until you hit a good one. Figure out what you did wrong, go through your routine and hit another. If you hit it bad again, diagnose again, over exaggerate and try to correct. Rinse.Repeat.

 

[Zomp]

 
 
You can always start at 45" and cut it more if you don't like it 
So what is the point of the Mini, you need to fill in the gap between your driver and 3 wood?
 

 
 
For me I need to replace my driver.  I cannot hit a driver to save my life.  Its mental.  I realize it and now I'm trying to find alternates.  I carry my 3 wood about 250 off the tee which is great but if I'm playing a par 4 thats 430+ or a par 5 that I want to try to hit in 2 I need to be able to hit it about 270-280.  Those are the results I was getting with the SLDR mini but I was much more consistent with it.
 
To put it another way, I'd rather be 270-280 and hit 60% of fairways (where my miss is still in play) then be 280-300 off the tee and hit 20% of fairways and have my misses put me in trees.
 
 
Jercra, the swing weight of the Mini is D3, which is the same weight as the driver and the club weight of the mini is about 10g more than a driver.  Does that mean I should go for a driver like shaft?
 
GolfWRX goes over my head when they talk about it.

 

[LogansDad]

Was gonna go out golfing today, but work stuff came up.  And my kids' mom is working all weekend, so I'm not going to get to play at all.  I am sad now.
 
Might just take the kids to the range for a while.

 

[Phragle]

For me I need to replace my driver.  I cannot hit a driver to save my life.  Its mental.  I realize it and now I'm trying to find alternates.  I carry my 3 wood about 250 off the tee which is great but if I'm playing a par 4 thats 430+ or a par 5 that I want to try to hit in 2 I need to be able to hit it about 270-280.  Those are the results I was getting with the SLDR mini but I was much more consistent with it.
 
To put it another way, I'd rather be 270-280 and hit 60% of fairways (where my miss is still in play) then be 280-300 off the tee and hit 20% of fairways and have my misses put me in trees.

Oh ok. I didn't know you were ditching the driver. I have the same problem right now but I'm going to work on it more before I give up on the driver.
 

Jercra, the swing weight of the Mini is D3, which is the same weight as the driver and the club weight of the mini is about 10g more than a driver.  Does that mean I should go for a driver like shaft?
 
GolfWRX goes over my head when they talk about it.

Increasing the shaft length will increase the swing weight. If the Mini is 10g heavier, but has the same swing weight, then the shaft must be shorter than the drivers shaft. If you want the Mini to be the same length and swing weight as the driver, you'll have to lighten up the head 10 grams or it will have a high swing weight and feel too heavy.
 
What was the length of the Mini you demoed?

 

[Zomp]

I don't know.  It was standard so I think 43.5.  My hope was that a longer club would make me hit it a bit further.  Perhaps I'll just try it at 44 like Flawless said and give it a go.
 
 
 
Though I fully accept that he's telling me that because he doesn't want me to outdrive him with my mini club....

 

[FL4WL3SS]

Yes, my master plan!

 

[Leon Trotsky]

 
 
For me I need to replace my driver.  I cannot hit a driver to save my life.  Its mental.  I realize it and now I'm trying to find alternates.  I carry my 3 wood about 250 off the tee which is great but if I'm playing a par 4 thats 430+ or a par 5 that I want to try to hit in 2 I need to be able to hit it about 270-280.  Those are the results I was getting with the SLDR mini but I was much more consistent with it.
 
To put it another way, I'd rather be 270-280 and hit 60% of fairways (where my miss is still in play) then be 280-300 off the tee and hit 20% of fairways and have my misses put me in trees.
 
 
Jercra, the swing weight of the Mini is D3, which is the same weight as the driver and the club weight of the mini is about 10g more than a driver.  Does that mean I should go for a driver like shaft?
 
GolfWRX goes over my head when they talk about it.

 
I've been considering the mini for this exact same reason. I can't hit a driver to save my life, but I can pretty consistently hit the 3 wood about 200-210 off the tee and in play. I've been avoiding the mini thinking that I really need to learn to hit the driver for the long term, but if I can hit the mini 230-240 what is the dif? I'm probably about a 20 handicap now, but getting better.
 
Should I just try this thing out or should I just learn to hit a normal driver?

 

[jercra]

I don't know.  It was standard so I think 43.5.  My hope was that a longer club would make me hit it a bit further.  Perhaps I'll just try it at 44 like Flawless said and give it a go.
 
 
 
Though I fully accept that he's telling me that because he doesn't want me to outdrive him with my mini club....

Tom Wishon insists that a longer club will only do you any good if you always hit the center of the clubface.  Misses of very small amounts make a bigger difference than shaft length by a lot.  Whatever makes you hit the center of the face is the right shaft length.  I recommend checking our his book "The right sticks" for clubfitting info and myths.  Much of it is trying to convince higher handicaps to use the right clubs but most of it applies to everyone.

 

[Papelbon's Poutine]

I'm really impressed with the Vice golf balls.  They feel exactly like ProV1's.  I gave a sleeve to each of my playing partners (my buddy and his 2 sons) who are all single digit players.  He went home and ordered 5 dozen.  He only plays ProV's.  Next time I need balls I won't be looking for deals on ProVs, I'll be ordering 5 dozen more of the Vice Pros.

Played them today for the first time and basically wanted to echo everything in this post. Long off the tee, soft and spin around the green and they held up nicely throughout the round, only scuff was one that hit a cart path. I am on board with Vice.

 

[LogansDad]

Played them today for the first time and basically wanted to echo everything in this post. Long off the tee, soft and spin around the green and they held up nicely throughout the round, only scuff was one that hit a cart path. I am on board with Vice.

Just checked out the website, are you using the Pro Plus balls or the regular?

 

[Papelbon's Poutine]

I got the Pro Neons. They are comp to a ProV1. If anyone is interested in the nitty gritty, here's an article I found that shows the numbers coming off a launch monitor. They have a little less spin, but the numbers are otherwise almost identical to the ProV1s. http://www.independentgolfreviews.com/vice-golf-balls.html?m

 

[jercra]

Just checked out the website, are you using the Pro Plus balls or the regular?

The Pro Plus are brand new and are the same as the ProV1x rather than just ProV1.  I'll be ordering 5 more dozen.  Want to get while the getting is good before the word gets out and the price goes up.  Glad you liked them PP.

 

[Over Guapo Grande]

I shot my age today.   Granted it was 9 holes, but that was a first (on a non mini-golf course). 

 

[Leon Trotsky]

Played Fall River CC today. Wow, that is a really lovely course. 

 

[Papelbon's Poutine]

Picked up some new head covers from Stitch golf. After three long weeks of waiting, they came today. Couldn't be happier with them

 

[Phragle]

Has anyone here played with a Optishot? My dad is looking to buy a simulator but doesn't want to pay 20k for a trackman.

 

[jercra]

Has anyone here played with a Optishot? My dad is looking to buy a simulator but doesn't want to pay 20k for a trackman.

I've not specifically used the optishot but the basics of all simulators that are not a Trackman or FlightScope X2 Elite (doplar systems) are that the numbers are all calculated based on simple ball speed.  You generally need to put your club into it so it can guess where the ball will land based on the loft of the club and your ball speed.  Basically, when looking at launch monitors, do your research and find out what's measured and what's calculated.  

 

[Dogman]

What does everyone use for an app?  
 
I'm looking for an app that is pretty accurate for yardage, keeps the basic stats like GIR, Fairways and one that keeps a USGA handicap. 

 

[TFP]

I use The Grint, but only because my friends were already using it. It's not bad but not great, although the GPS seems pretty good on it.

 

[LogansDad]

I'm using the free version of GolfLogix on my android.  GPS seems pretty good, provides score keeping, fairways/green/putt tracking.  There's a handicap listing on it but I suck bad enough that it hasn't changed from its default 36, so I'm not sure if it works with the free version. 

 

[Phragle]

Does anyone know of any store/site that still has Titleist SM4s kicking around? I only found two sites, but they look questionable.
 
 

I've not specifically used the optishot but the basics of all simulators that are not a Trackman or FlightScope X2 Elite (doplar systems) are that the numbers are all calculated based on simple ball speed.  You generally need to put your club into it so it can guess where the ball will land based on the loft of the club and your ball speed.  Basically, when looking at launch monitors, do your research and find out what's measured and what's calculated.  

 
Ok so it's pretty basic. 
 

What does everyone use for an app?  
 
I'm looking for an app that is pretty accurate for yardage, keeps the basic stats like GIR, Fairways and one that keeps a USGA handicap. 

 
I DLed SwingxSwing but I haven't used it yet.

 

[Papelbon's Poutine]

Does anyone know of any store/site that still has Titleist SM4s kicking around? I only found two sites, but they look questionable.

Tried sending you a PM but your box is full.

You looking for new or used?

Edit: new, I see some on golfdiscount.com and a ton on eBay from highly rated sellers. If you're interested in used PM me.

 

[Phragle]

Ideally new, but I'm interested if you have a lightly used 50.12 or 62.07 for sale.
 
Golfdiscount was one of the site that looked questionable to me.

 

[Papelbon's Poutine]

They're legit. I've bought from them before. Don't be afraid of eBay either. I've bought a lot of clubs on there with no knockoffs - I always just look for a lot of transactions (generally at least over 1k) and then carefully review their comments if they have any negatives. The last Scotty I bought was from a seller with over 2k transactions, 100% positive. Bought it "used like new", it came with the shrink wrap still on and I saved about $80. You can always check the serial number with Titleist if you worry about it.

I don't have either of those. You might have trouble finding the 62. I have a 54.11 and a 58.12 in oil can in good shape that I just stripped with clr and am about to flame torch them blue and refill the paint. Like so

Different paint job, but going for that finish, a little further into blue.

 

[Phragle]

They're legit. I've bought from them before. Don't be afraid of eBay either. I've bought a lot of clubs on there with no knockoffs - I always just look for a lot of transactions (generally at least over 1k) and then carefully review their comments if they have any negatives. The last Scotty I bought was from a seller with over 2k transactions, 100% positive. Bought it "used like new", it came with the shrink wrap still on and I saved about $80. You can always check the serial number with Titleist if you worry about it.

I don't have either of those. You might have trouble finding the 62. I have a 54.11 and a 58.12 in oil can in good shape that I just stripped with clr and am about to flame torch them blue and refill the paint. Like so

Different paint job, but going for that finish, a little further into blue.

 
Ok thanks, PP.  Do you know if the tour chrome Vokey's can be stripped to raw too? I wouldn't mind having a raw metal wedge.
 
I found a 62 but it's on Miamigolf.com. I bet you haven't ordered from them, huh? It looks questionable to me. http://www.miamigolf.com/index/page/product/product_id/3574/category_id/37/product_name/Titleist+Vokey+SM4+Oil+Can+CC+Wedge

 

[Papelbon's Poutine]

 
Ok thanks, PP.  Do you know if the tour chrome Vokey's can be stripped to raw too? I wouldn't mind having a raw metal wedge.
 
I found a 62 but it's on Miamigolf.com. I bet you haven't ordered from them, huh? It looks questionable to me. http://www.miamigolf.com/index/page/product/product_id/3574/category_id/37/product_name/Titleist+Vokey+SM4+Oil+Can+CC+Wedge

Ok, I can see why that website sketches you out. Probably wouldn't buy from them either. Haha.

Chrome you can strip but not with clr or coke. You'll need hydrocloric/muriatic acid for that. Unless you know what you're doing, I'd suggest having that done by a professional.

 

[Papelbon's Poutine]

Did my first set of grips myself today. I went the air compressor route and it was pretty simple. Honestly the longest and hardest process was getting off the old tape. I also discovered that the last time I took them to the local shop, they must have had one of the kids do it, because there was six layers under there and the obviously hadn't taken off the old ones.

Strip, clean, three layers of painters tape and blow on the new one. Easy enough and I'll likely never pay for the service again.

 

[LogansDad]

The Pro Plus are brand new and are the same as the ProV1x rather than just ProV1.  I'll be ordering 5 more dozen.  Want to get while the getting is good before the word gets out and the price goes up.  Glad you liked them PP.

Just ordered 5 dozen of these myself.  Can't wait to try them out.

 

[jercra]

Did my first set of grips myself today. I went the air compressor route and it was pretty simple. Honestly the longest and hardest process was getting off the old tape. I also discovered that the last time I took them to the local shop, they must have had one of the kids do it, because there was six layers under there and the obviously hadn't taken off the old ones.

Strip, clean, three layers of painters tape and blow on the new one. Easy enough and I'll likely never pay for the service again.

Almost hard to believe you used to pay for that huh?  Wait until you reshaft a club too.  It's even easier (for irons anyway)

 

[southshoresoxfan]

So i just shot an 85 on a 68/125 course using a used Top Flight ball after I hit my two remaining Callaway Chrome Soft OB.   I've spent a decent amount on balls and I'd like to not do that anymore.  Around a 15 cap end of the season last year and I'm hitting it well.
 
What are the best value deals? Everything I google comes up with a diff response based on who paid that site.
 
I've played DT Solos before and those were ok.  Just sick of spending 40 bucks on a dozen balls.  Play a lot of heavily wooded courses in my area where even something barely offline can result in a lost ball.
 
I prefer softer feel as I'd rather have a little more control than distance, I can get around most courses just fine at my current distances.

 

[jercra]

So i just shot an 85 on a 68/125 course using a used Top Flight ball after I hit my two remaining Callaway Chrome Soft OB.   I've spent a decent amount on balls and I'd like to not do that anymore.  Around a 15 cap end of the season last year and I'm hitting it well.
 
What are the best value deals? Everything I google comes up with a diff response based on who paid that site.
 
I've played DT Solos before and those were ok.  Just sick of spending 40 bucks on a dozen balls.  Play a lot of heavily wooded courses in my area where even something barely offline can result in a lost ball.
 
I prefer softer feel as I'd rather have a little more control than distance, I can get around most courses just fine at my current distances.

Psst, look upthread.  $25 for ProV1 quality.  $11 for NXT Tour quality.

 

[southshoresoxfan]

Psst, look upthread.  $25 for ProV1 quality.  $11 for NXT Tour quality.

Ah ha. Thank you.

 

[Over Guapo Grande]

Awesome to see Neumie doing stuff live.