Sports Cards Mania

[Fishercat]

Also, unrelated entirely (except that Charizard can't go on the restricted list),

He is easily a top five current player in terms of speculative baseball card value. Imagine how much is being lost there if the worst outcomes prevail?

I was surprised to see some comment from someone who claimed to own a Franco card worth 13k, which is far more than I would’ve thought modern cards could reach.

It may be a better topic for the Sports Card thread in the end, but Franco's market is very large especially for a player type that can see depressed value (Latin American, small market team). He was the poster boy of the tail end of the card boom in early 2022. Even recently his highest end stuff has gone for 50-75k for a card. He was generally, I think, considered the "safer" big rookie investment last year compared to guys with lower ceilings (Torkelson, Witt Jr.) or even Julio who became the name to have but Wander quietly kept playing well and people picked up some stuff.

If you want to go worst case, Trevor Bauer's 1st Bowman Auto Limited to 25 (Orange) went for 1.1k in March of 2021 (graded a gem mint 9.5). An ungraded version of that same card sold for $300 last month (it'd almost certainly go for less if auctioned). The market has shifted a lot and the grading makes it different but probably imagine that, except even more high profile, with a substantially higher number of cards and much bigger money invested

Nowhere near the most important thing about this but if the Franco news turns out to be worst case or near worst case, I imagine the effect on the sports card world will be fairly big.

 

[Deathofthebambino]

Recently I randomly bought a few Pokemon card packs mostly out of nostalgia from when I built the first four sets back in the late 90s and early 00s (before most of them got stolen which, well, double edged sword there...). I was genuinely surprised to see what came out of them. I was very much used to the 60-80 card sets from the past with a fairly simple four tiered structure (commons which were 4-6 a pack, uncommons which were 2-3 a pack, and then a rare card that could be holographic, which were the chases). Now, there's so much more going on. You have those three tiers, but you also have double rares, full art cards (so instead of the tiny window, the entire card is like the picture with the moves written inside of it), golden cards, reverse holos. None of it was truly insanely rare (I think I've seen a gold every other box on a handful of breaks I saw), boxes are 36 packs for $110 or so from what I've seen so it's cheap, and most importantly the cards can be really unique looking. I've picked up a handful of singles from the set that I really liked but I almost want to build it now.

I know Topps, Panini, Leaf etc. dabble in artistic cards but it's mostly an on-demand item. I wonder if they did a 200 card set of MLB stars drawn in a more cartoonish or absurd style, and put it out as a rippable product if it would see major success. Even without the associated games I think it could do really well and would be a super fun opening

Examples at the link: Obsidian Flames Visual Set List — JustInBasil's Pokémon TCG Resources

I have a few thousand Pokemon cards (mostly purchased new from 2015-2018 or so for the kids. Just bought packs, boxes, etc. and ripped them.

For the absolute life of me, I have no fucking clue how to value them, figure out what they are, what their sets are from, etc. It's not like when I look at a baseball card and go (1979 Topps, Jim Rice). I could have zero value or thousands of dollars in them, and I have no idea. Is there a primer for these things?

 

[AlNipper49]

I have a few thousand Pokemon cards (mostly purchased new from 2015-2018 or so for the kids. Just bought packs, boxes, etc. and ripped them.

For the absolute life of me, I have no fucking clue how to value them, figure out what they are, what their sets are from, etc. It's not like when I look at a baseball card and go (1979 Topps, Jim Rice). I could have zero value or thousands of dollars in them, and I have no idea. Is there a primer for these things?

My kid has an app that just scans them. All of his are basically worthless, but occasionally he'll find a $10-$15 one

 

[Fishercat]

I have a few thousand Pokemon cards (mostly purchased new from 2015-2018 or so for the kids. Just bought packs, boxes, etc. and ripped them.

For the absolute life of me, I have no fucking clue how to value them, figure out what they are, what their sets are from, etc. It's not like when I look at a baseball card and go (1979 Topps, Jim Rice). I could have zero value or thousands of dollars in them, and I have no idea. Is there a primer for these things?

I would likely search by Pokemon name and card number to try and divine down the set. Probably some noise there but should work all right.

Very generally, commons and uncommons only have value in early or severely short printed sets. The rares (tiny star on the bottom of the card) are probably the baseline point above donation level and to Nips point most aren't worth a ton anyway Generally look for holographic cards, if from that era EX and GX after the Pokemon name, and full art cards (where the image takes up the whole card). Occasionally a trainer or weird energy card is also of value. I like this site, I think values skew a bit high but it's a good resource

https://www.pricecharting.com/console/pokemon-primal-clash

Even more generally, Charizard is like the Mickey Mantle of Pokemon so just take those ones out first.

 

[Deathofthebambino]

I would likely search by Pokemon name and card number to try and divine down the set. Probably some noise there but should work all right.

Very generally, commons and uncommons only have value in early or severely short printed sets. The rares (tiny star on the bottom of the card) are probably the baseline point above donation level and to Nips point most aren't worth a ton anyway Generally look for holographic cards, if from that era EX and GX after the Pokemon name, and full art cards (where the image takes up the whole card). Occasionally a trainer or weird energy card is also of value. I like this site, I think values skew a bit high but it's a good resource

https://www.pricecharting.com/console/pokemon-primal-clash

Even more generally, Charizard is like the Mickey Mantle of Pokemon so just take those ones out first.

Yeah, there are a ton of holo, EX and GX cards. A few Charizards too. Ill try to go through them and take some pics and post them and look them up.

 

[DanoooME]

I have a few thousand Pokemon cards (mostly purchased new from 2015-2018 or so for the kids. Just bought packs, boxes, etc. and ripped them.

For the absolute life of me, I have no fucking clue how to value them, figure out what they are, what their sets are from, etc. It's not like when I look at a baseball card and go (1979 Topps, Jim Rice). I could have zero value or thousands of dollars in them, and I have no idea. Is there a primer for these things?

My kid has an app that just scans them. All of his are basically worthless, but occasionally he'll find a $10-$15 one

TCGPlayer.com, or even better, get the app

 

[Kenny F'ing Powers]

Send me some pics or a list. I can tell you what's worth anything from just about any set.

Generally it's one of the rare card types + either a specific pokemon or a specific trainer (pokemon people are waifu weirdos).

Tcgplayer is your best bet, but rule of thumb is that each set basically only will have a few cards worth much of anything. If you want to make money, you're better off finding ungraded vintage cards that are 1st edition and under market value that you can grade for a profit.

 

[Kenny F'ing Powers]

Yeah, there are a ton of holo, EX and GX cards. A few Charizards too. Ill try to go through them and take some pics and post them and look them up.

The majority of them will be worth $2 or less. Post some pics and I'll let you know.

 

[Green (Tongued) Monster]

I have recently been buying/building PSA graded junk era cards and insert sets because the nostalgia makes me much happier than ripping $300-$400 of bowman or heritage packs and finding nothing. I am trying to budget accordingly and not just buying everything I see on ebay. Therefore, much of it is waiting out the auctions instead of the higher price "buy it now listings". This has been a slow process. Are there any other sites/groups other than ebay that you have used and recommend for this? The following are some of the items I am starting with:

1991-1993 Wild Card Football stripes - PSA graded 8+
1989 Donruss baseball Rated Rookie Set - PSA graded 9+
1991 Fleer Pro Vision insert Set - PSA graded 8+

 

[Deathofthebambino]

The majority of them will be worth $2 or less. Post some pics and I'll let you know.

Opened a small tin I had laying around last night with about 100 cards in it, and found these two, the top one appears to be some kind of foil card). Sorry for the size and side view. I also saw a bunch of gigantic oversized cards that had the word "mega" on them before the name, and one was a Charizard.

 

[Deathofthebambino]

Also found about 300 "Konami" trading cards, whatever the hell they are...

 

[Deathofthebambino]

I would likely search by Pokemon name and card number to try and divine down the set. Probably some noise there but should work all right.

Very generally, commons and uncommons only have value in early or severely short printed sets. The rares (tiny star on the bottom of the card) are probably the baseline point above donation level and to Nips point most aren't worth a ton anyway Generally look for holographic cards, if from that era EX and GX after the Pokemon name, and full art cards (where the image takes up the whole card). Occasionally a trainer or weird energy card is also of value. I like this site, I think values skew a bit high but it's a good resource

https://www.pricecharting.com/console/pokemon-primal-clash

Even more generally, Charizard is like the Mickey Mantle of Pokemon so just take those ones out first.

Ok, this is how much of a novice I am. On those cards I just posted, what is the card number? I put 19/113 into that site, but nothing comes up even though that's what the card number supposedly is?

Also found a ton of trainer cards, some look like foil or holo (no clue the difference). The problem is I don't know what to put into the boxes to find the cards..LOL

 

[Ale Xander]

Ok, this is how much of a novice I am. On those cards I just posted, what is the card number? I put 19/113 into that site, but nothing comes up even though that's what the card number supposedly is?

Also found a ton of trainer cards, some look like foil or holo (no clue the difference). The problem is I don't know what to put into the boxes to find the cards..LOL

160?
(just going by sports cards positioning)

 

[Deathofthebambino]

160?

Huh? Just type 160 into something? I thought that was like hit points or something.

 

[Ale Xander]

Huh? Just type 160 into something? I thought that was like hit points or something.

Hmmmm
Maybe 19 then and there are 113 cards in the set?

 

[Deathofthebambino]

Hmmmm
Maybe 19 then and there are 113 cards in the set?

Yep, that's what I'm reading, but I don't know what I'm supposed to be putting into the box. When I go to the search function on TCG, this is what it looks like:

https://shop.tcgplayer.com/pokemon?newSearch=true&_gl=1*hezzw2*_gcl_au*NDE3NDQyNDY1LjE2OTIxMjkxOTQ.*_ga*MTc0NzgxNzkwMi4xNjkyMTI5MTk0*_ga_VS9BE2Z3GY*MTY5MjEyOTE5NC4xLjEuMTY5MjEyOTk4Mi41Ny4wLjA.

 

[Ale Xander]

Googled it and found someone selling the foil version for $15.17

 

[Ale Xander]

Yep, that's what I'm reading, but I don't know what I'm supposed to be putting into the box. When I go to the search function on TCG, this is what it looks like:

https://shop.tcgplayer.com/pokemon?newSearch=true&_gl=1*hezzw2*_gcl_au*NDE3NDQyNDY1LjE2OTIxMjkxOTQ.*_ga*MTc0NzgxNzkwMi4xNjkyMTI5MTk0*_ga_VS9BE2Z3GY*MTY5MjEyOTE5NC4xLjEuMTY5MjEyOTk4Mi41Ny4wLjA.

I think you can just Google the card and add tcg or tcgplayer in search box and get someone’s listing

 

[Ale Xander]

https://www.tcgplayer.com/product/84194/pokemon-legendary-treasures-charizard?country=US&utm_campaign=20451986774&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=&utm_term=&adgroupid=&gclid=CjwKCAjwxOymBhAFEiwAnodBLKH1SzCRPw6bhff7GDMmMah_1XZgDhpf6fWck7WQcxYXMWvGbxLEvBoC77QQAvD_BwE

I just put 19/133 and charizard in google

 

[Ale Xander]

You are correct, 19/133 is the card number.

 

[Fishercat]

To confirm yes, 19 is the card number, 113 total cards in the set but they have introduced secret rares / gold cards ! Etc that can make the set bigger than the denominator. The first number is the important one though for you. The star signifies it is a rare card

I just did Charizard 19 into COMC and looked for an image match which aligned with what Ale found. Psa7 below

https://www.comc.com/Cards/Pokemon/2013/Pokemon_Black__White_-_Legendary_Treasures_-_Base/191/Cosmos_Holo_-_Charizard/22187678/Graded/PSA/7

 

[Fishercat]

For trainer cards I'd use card name and number like with Pokemon though it's rarer that they hold value. Since Pokemon collectors are...uh... Interesting I'd probably focus on any trainers with female characters on them first though that's not always the most desirable card it can often align

 

[Kenny F'ing Powers]

You're going to be MUCH better off selling certain packs from the black and white series (the timeframe of the "legendary treasures" set youre showing) then opening them.

So, selling graded cards is best done on ebay. If youre not going to grade them, the best way to get prices and sell these cards - if you want to open the packs- is to go to tcgplayer.com, click "pokemon" in the menu, and then scroll to "price guide" at the very bottom.

The price guides are sorted by sets. The one you showed a picture of is from the "legendary treasures" set. While the listed average price is $33, you need to be more specific on the type of card you have. Click on the card and filter by the characteristics of your cards.

For example, one of the cards is a "holofoil" - the foil is on the picture, whereas a "reverse holofoil" is on the entire card - while the other one is just a regular card (which is weird, because this card appears like it should only be a holo or reverse holo, so not sure why you have a plain card unless the picture is just weird).

Click on "filters" halfway down the page and filter for "holofoil" and "near mint", as your card seems to be around that quality (or go LP if you want).

That $30 price seems about right:



That price is the same on ebay, fwiw (you need to sort by "sold items" and use the most recent deals as a good barometer for price).

If you're feeling lucky, you can try to get it graded. A PSA 10 hits for about $750, while a PSA 9 only goes for $50.



Seriously, I've invested tens of thousands into Pokemon because of the longterm viability of them. Before you open anymore packs or sell anything, you may want to PM me. Like, that pack was probably worth between $75-100 prior to opening, and the market has actually hit a bit of a lull (and will for another couple years). There's good times to buy, sell, open, not open, etc based on a lot of variables.

 

[Kenny F'ing Powers]

Oh, also, those larger "mega cards" are promo cards. Usually not as valuable, but usually a higher floor/lower ceiling thing for one's in this timeframe.

 

[Ale Xander]

You're going to be MUCH better off selling certain packs from the black and white series (the timeframe of the "legendary treasures" set youre showing) then opening them.

So, selling graded cards is best done on ebay. If youre not going to grade them, the best way to get prices and sell these cards - if you want to open the packs- is to go to tcgplayer.com, click "pokemon" in the menu, and then scroll to "price guide" at the very bottom.

The price guides are sorted by sets. The one you showed a picture of is from the "legendary treasures" set. While the listed average price is $33, you need to be more specific on the type of card you have. Click on the card and filter by the characteristics of your cards.

For example, one of the cards is a "holofoil" - the foil is on the picture, whereas a "reverse holofoil" is on the entire card - while the other one is just a regular card (which is weird, because this card appears like it should only be a holo or reverse holo, so not sure why you have a plain card unless the picture is just weird).

Click on "filters" halfway down the page and filter for "holofoil" and "near mint", as your card seems to be around that quality (or go LP if you want).

That $30 price seems about right:

View attachment 69181

That price is the same on ebay, fwiw (you need to sort by "sold items" and use the most recent deals as a good barometer for price).

If you're feeling lucky, you can try to get it graded. A PSA 10 hits for about $750, while a PSA 9 only goes for $50.

View attachment 69182

Seriously, I've invested tens of thousands into Pokemon because of the longterm viability of them. Before you open anymore packs or sell anything, you may want to PM me. Like, that pack was probably worth between $75-100 prior to opening, and the market has actually hit a bit of a lull (and will for another couple years). There's good times to buy, sell, open, not open, etc based on a lot of variables.

Would you mind explaining why there is “longterm viability” of Pokemon cards?

 

[Kenny F'ing Powers]

Would you mind explaining why there is “longterm viability” of Pokemon cards?

Sure.

The issue with sports cards is that the large, large majority of money is made immediately. Other than the top lottery ticket type cards, most cards never reach a price higher than the first few weeks/months after a rookie release. And many, if not most, nearly crater out completely.

Pokemon cards, OTOH, don't rely on those lottery ticket type cards to drive after market prices. It's driven almost entirely off of the limited supply of rarer cards. It's why there are very few lottery ticket type cards like we see with sports cards, but the rare cards (comparatively speaking) will keep a peak value as long as the bubble doesn't burst.

There is a very clear pattern in the pokemon card market (different pattern for Japanese and English versions). In the English market, card prices jump the week after a release, drop for a month or so, and then the public determines how much interest the set has and the price settles in. After about a quarter, the market starts to dry up and then the 1/2 major cards from the set start to rise in price and settle in after about 3-4 quarters. That price may fluctuate a little depending on external market factors, but there's no risk that card turns into a Wander Franco situation. A card worth $300 a quarter after release will almost always be worth at least that amount, and often more if the card has appeal. Getting insider info on the sets/rare cards/etc and buying/grading the right cards early for cheap usually fetches a really good ROI 2-3 years out.

The only real risk is that the set itself doesn't appeal to the public and craters ("Battle Styles" 2 years ago, "Steam Siege" 8ish years ago). Even still, unopened boxes of those sets fetch a 10% return.

At a minimum, simply buying some boxes of them for retail value and sitting on them will usually return a 100% ROI. In some cases, closer to 500%. That's not true for most sports retail boxes.

I have two maniac kids climbing on me, but if you want me to expand more, I will when I get some time.

 

[Ale Xander]

Thanks! Yeah for sure when you get time.

 

[Kenny F'ing Powers]

For trainer cards I'd use card name and number like with Pokemon though it's rarer that they hold value. Since Pokemon collectors are...uh... Interesting I'd probably focus on any trainers with female characters on them first though that's not always the most desirable card it can often align

Kind of true for the English cards, very true for the Japanese ones. Often, the female trainer cards of choice are the most expensive cards in those sets.

They love their Waifus.

 

[LogansDad]

Just to add, for @Deathofthebambino , you can determine what set the card is from by the logo on the bottom right, which is how KFP determined this Charizard is from the Legendary Treasures set (I am not huge on Pokemon knowledge, but I think most sets have some sort of Charizard, so it is important to know which one you are looking at).

I used this site to look it up, but there may be better options out there.

 

[Kenny F'ing Powers]

Just to add, for @Deathofthebambino , you can determine what set the card is from by the logo on the bottom right, which is how KFP determined this Charizard is from the Legendary Treasures set (I am not huge on Pokemon knowledge, but I think most sets have some sort of Charizard, so it is important to know which one you are looking at).

I used this site to look it up, but there may be better options out there.

You're right about most of this.

But I didn't need to use the logo to determine the set. I'm just that big of a fucking loser. (I would need some sleuthing for most cards, but the Charizards are sometimes pretty easy to remember series/set).

 

[deanx0]

If you need someone else to tag in with writeups, I can help as well...my son is a crazy collector of Pokémon cards

 

[Kenny F'ing Powers]

If you need someone else to tag in with writeups, I can help as well...my son is a crazy collector of Pokémon cards

Thats awesome. Yeah, my kids got into it during Covid (when everyone else did, too), and I got sucked in as well. My kids have a large collection of the newest stuff, while I started collecting the older vintage 1st edition stuff and some of the older higher end cards that I thought would have good long term value.

@Deathofthebambino , as I mentioned, the best place to sell ungraded cards is on TCGPlayer.com, but there is a bit of a vetting process to get an account. And some of the perks that make it easy dont really kick in until you've sold a certain amount of cards. I have an account on there, so if you want to use that to sell, let me know. I can post them, and when someone buys, I'll give you the shipping info and venmo/paypal you the cash upon transaction completion.

 

[Deathofthebambino]

Thats awesome. Yeah, my kids got into it during Covid (when everyone else did, too), and I got sucked in as well. My kids have a large collection of the newest stuff, while I started collecting the older vintage 1st edition stuff and some of the older higher end cards that I thought would have good long term value.

@Deathofthebambino , as I mentioned, the best place to sell ungraded cards is on TCGPlayer.com, but there is a bit of a vetting process to get an account. And some of the perks that make it easy dont really kick in until you've sold a certain amount of cards. I have an account on there, so if you want to use that to sell, let me know. I can post them, and when someone buys, I'll give you the shipping info and venmo/paypal you the cash upon transaction completion.

Thanks bud, I appreciate you. I can't imagine I'll get around to selling them/putting them together any time soon. FYI, I don't have anything unopened. The Charizards I posted yesterday, I just happened to pull out of the first card box (I have hundreds of card boxes laying around for sports cards, pokemon, etc. in no particular order that I just put the cards into when me and my son used to open boxes/tins, etc. together) I saw and they were in there. But if I manage to do something, I'll reach out.

At least now, I have some idea of what I'm looking for that might have value. Just to be clear, for semi-rare cards, you'd be looking for the little star down there next to the card number?

 

[deanx0]

Star indicates rare (which are one per pack); the circles are commons and the diamond are semirare.

In each set, the holos and a chunk of other cards are designated as rare.

 

[Kenny F'ing Powers]

Thanks bud, I appreciate you. I can't imagine I'll get around to selling them/putting them together any time soon. FYI, I don't have anything unopened. The Charizards I posted yesterday, I just happened to pull out of the first card box (I have hundreds of card boxes laying around for sports cards, pokemon, etc. in no particular order that I just put the cards into when me and my son used to open boxes/tins, etc. together) I saw and they were in there. But if I manage to do something, I'll reach out.

At least now, I have some idea of what I'm looking for that might have value. Just to be clear, for semi-rare cards, you'd be looking for the little star down there next to the card number?

It's all variable. The star doesn't mean much.

If you're looking for a guideline, I'd say that full art cards (the character takes up the whole card instead of the top 50% window), "secret" cards (if there's /50 cards in a set, the card number will be higher than 50), and charizards.

Anyway I can help, lemme know.

 

[santadevil]

Just grabbed this from COMC
Haven't ordered there for a couple years, but Bello is my new binky

https://www.comc.com/Cards/Baseball/2023/Topps_Tribute_-_Tribute_Autographs_-_Green/TA-BBE/Brayan_Bello/23362857/Ungraded/COMC/EX-NM

 

[Petagine in a Bottle]

Oooh, that’s nice.

 

[tmracht]

Thinking of getting my 1/1 Ohtani graded. Never did PSA before any good resources on how to go about doing it?

 

[JimywockyTranslator]

Thinking of getting my 1/1 Ohtani graded. Never did PSA before any good resources on how to go about doing it?

Full disclosure: I've never submitted anything to PSA myself, but own a few slabs. I have actually submitted a few cards to TAG recently (www.taggrading.com) and have been thoroughly impressed with their process and output. Unlike the big three companies (PSA, Beckett, SGC) , they do not use human graders and instead use photometric stereoscopic imaging. Each card that you get graded with them comes with a digital grading report that shows you exactly why your card got the grade it did. Add in my favorite looking slab and I'm fully on board with them.

That being said, if you're looking to sell your Ohtani 1/1 then PSA might be your best bet for return on investment given the name recognition they have.

In terms of PSA submission:

This article seems to be pretty straightforward about how to submit and Kurt's Card Care has some educational videos on how to prep your cards before sending it in to get graded.

 

[Bergs]

Might as well try this. I am currently obsessed with trying to find this card. It's a 2010 Topps. It's worth about $5 but I can't find one. Anyone have one laying around?







Also, 2006 Topps Triple Threads Die-cut Yaz set. It's a set of 10 (TTH67CY1-TTH67CY10) with each card numbered to 50. I have TTH67CY4 and TTH67CY8. Need the rest. These are more like $15-$20 per.

Here's an example:

Tagging @santadevil @Kenny F'ing Powers @Deathofthebambino

 

[Bergs]

Just grabbed this from COMC
Haven't ordered there for a couple years, but Bello is my new binky

https://www.comc.com/Cards/Baseball/2023/Topps_Tribute_-_Tribute_Autographs_-_Green/TA-BBE/Brayan_Bello/23362857/Ungraded/COMC/EX-NM

Nice. I have the 2023 Heritage and 2023 Topps autos of his.

 

[santadevil]

Nice. I have the 2023 Heritage and 2023 Topps autos of his.

I saw the Heritage one there and didn't pull the trigger on it and kicked myself. It's a nice looking card
So I jumped on this one when I saw it

 

[staz]

Expected to see deeply discounted high-end Wanders at a card show in Albany, NY today, but very few were even being shown.

 

[Fishercat]

NFLPA revoked the player license from Panini effective immediately despite years left on the deal. This will get ugly

 

[Kenny F'ing Powers]

NFLPA revoked the player license from Panini effective immediately despite years left on the deal. This will get ugly

 

[Ale Xander]

Expected to see deeply discounted high-end Wanders at a card show in Albany, NY today, but very few were even being shown.

I had a similar feeling re: Morant at a MA show just before the "justice" was handed out. Same result as yours. Dealers were correct then, doubtful now.

 

[Fishercat]

I think it’s a no win for dealers. Some buyers would outright walk away from Wander sales at this point and anyone buying either doesn't know what's happening (so you're taking advantage of the situation) or is looking for deep discounts. I think most dealers likely filed their Wanders away to bring them out if the allegations are deemed false and he comes back.

The "next day" Panini fallout is interesting because it really highlights how little people like Panini. In almost any other scenario the "little guy" getting their license pre-emptively taken away to push a monopoly in a hobby would get people really mad, but Panini has been so bad with redemptions, stickers/non associated mem on products, and price gouging that it seems most people are more in the "let's see what Fanatics does"...which given Fanatics' history is nuts. When I saw sticker autos littering football NT this year with some of the names in those boxes, it kind of shocked me to how bad it was. I am guessing the next step on this is either Panini sues to keep control for the short term and/or Panini focuses on sports they have licenses on (like UD did with hockey) or they sell.

In actual current sports card thoughts, has anyone has a chance to rip 2022 Platinum Anniversary? I was really impressed - yes it's insanely late but the colors look slick, card quality is solid, all on-card autos with minimal redemptions, really nice product at the low price point its at. It has the "bajillion parallel" syndrome but IMO it's the best budget friendly product of Topps whole 2022 cycle (with the caveat that I thought Stadium Club Chrome sucked which was a deeply unpopular opinion).

 

[Ale Xander]

The "next day" Panini fallout is interesting because it really highlights how little people like Panini.

I stupidly grew up on Donruss, so I'm predisposed to liking Panini, but with no MLB deal and all their shenanigans, it's really tough. I do love the 23 designs and the reverse negatives bring back memories of the JuanGone card in the apex of the junk/overproduced era, though, but no current players is a big downer.

 

[Bergs]

In actual current sports card thoughts, has anyone has a chance to rip 2022 Platinum Anniversary? I was really impressed - yes it's insanely late but the colors look slick, card quality is solid, all on-card autos with minimal redemptions, really nice product at the low price point its at. It has the "bajillion parallel" syndrome but IMO it's the best budget friendly product of Topps whole 2022 cycle (with the caveat that I thought Stadium Club Chrome sucked which was a deeply unpopular opinion).

I ripped a blaster box (which was actually pretty good to me) and a hobby lite box, and watched a 2-case player break (I had Yaz, which landed me exactly 2 base cards - womp womp). Great cards, lots of color hits. Contemplating how much $$$ I wanna put into a Yaz color run (without the 1/1, of course). I just got the Orange /25.

Also, Stadium Club is beautiful, so you're insane. lol

 

[Bergs]

Might as well try this. I am currently obsessed with trying to find this card. It's a 2010 Topps. It's worth about $5 but I can't find one. Anyone have one laying around?


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Also, 2006 Topps Triple Threads Die-cut Yaz set. It's a set of 10 (TTH67CY1-TTH67CY10) with each card numbered to 50. I have TTH67CY4 and TTH67CY8. Need the rest. These are more like $15-$20 per.

Here's an example:

Tagging @santadevil @Kenny F'ing Powers @Deathofthebambino

Not that any of you bastards care, but I got that 2010 Yaz Blue Back! I asked a seller I was buying a couple other things off of (a 'Tek auto and an Ortiz auto) if he happened to have one (he had A TON of red Sox stuff in his ebay store). Sure as shit, he found it and threw it in for free! Nice way to start a day.


Also, I'm tagging @santadevil @Kenny F'ing Powers @Deathofthebambino again to see if you happen to have any of those 2006 die cuts.