Sports Cards Mania

staz

Intangible
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Dec 2, 2004
21,951
The cradle of the game.
I don’t collect anything modern, but if I did, I think I would simply wait a year or two after release and then buy individual cards that I want. I loved ripping packs and have no idea if unopened stuff from a year or two is even available at decent prices but it seems like ripping packs is just too lopsided towards not making any sense at all anymore.
Even if I'm ok with the almost guaranteed poor ROI, ripping packs always leaves me with an impossible conundrum: what to do with all the chaff?
Recycle with all your other paper products? (Sorry, I cannot throw out cards. Not an option)
Keep them in a big box? (Just a form or procrastination. Plus, takes up space.)
Donate to poor sick children? (Poor sick children don't want mass-produced chaff, either.)
Sell at $0.05 on the dollar? (a.k.a. doubling down on the wasted $ by wasting time and then wasting more $ on packaging/postage. The resale markets have little interest in pile of worthless cards.)
 

AlNipper49

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Dope
SoSH Member
Apr 3, 2001
46,195
Mtigawi
Even if I'm ok with the almost guaranteed poor ROI, ripping packs always leaves me with an impossible conundrum: what to do with all the chaff?
Recycle with all your other paper products? (Sorry, I cannot throw out cards. Not an option)
Keep them in a big box? (Just a form or procrastination. Plus, takes up space.)
Donate to poor sick children? (Poor sick children don't want mass-produced chaff, either.)
Sell at $0.05 on the dollar? (a.k.a. doubling down on the wasted $ by wasting time and then wasting more $ on packaging/postage. The resale markets have little interest in pile of worthless cards.)
Drop off the pile at your local little league or to someone you know who coaches. Commons make great ‘good game/ practice’ rewards.
 

Fishercat

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May 18, 2007
8,858
Manchester, N.H.
Even if I'm ok with the almost guaranteed poor ROI, ripping packs always leaves me with an impossible conundrum: what to do with all the chaff?
Recycle with all your other paper products? (Sorry, I cannot throw out cards. Not an option)
Keep them in a big box? (Just a form or procrastination. Plus, takes up space.)
Donate to poor sick children? (Poor sick children don't want mass-produced chaff, either.)
Sell at $0.05 on the dollar? (a.k.a. doubling down on the wasted $ by wasting time and then wasting more $ on packaging/postage. The resale markets have little interest in pile of worthless cards.)
That's also an understated issue with this whole thing and another downside of breaking - the value of complete sets has gone to hell. It's more expensive to buy a box to start the build...but it's much cheaper just to buy a set from a breaker who keeps the base cards and then adds to their margins there. You can buy a complete set of 2025 Topps Series 1 for $40 - you could of course wait for the factory set, but even if you wanted it now, the market is saying a complete set is worth like $30 in real money after fees/shipping/etc - when you'll need to open hundreds of dollars in product to make it close.

I think at some point a card company is going to finally rip the bandaid off and just put all the regular (non breaker delight) hits in a breaker's delight format and say "OK, Series 1, you get 10 cards, it's $75 a box, no base, 1 relic/auto, all parallels/inserts+" and see how it goes, and then just sell "base" versions in complete and team sets.

For me, "keep them in a big box" is what it is, and I think the solution one day will probably be to do one run through, take out anything that immediately makes sense to keep/sell individually, and then box the rest up in 400 or 800ct boxes and sell them as lots for pennies on the dollar to someone who wants to really piece it out. Once a card goes below $1 you need to do a lot of work to squeeze the remaining juice out of it.
 

DanoooME

above replacement level
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Mar 16, 2008
20,957
Henderson, NV
That's also an understated issue with this whole thing and another downside of breaking - the value of complete sets has gone to hell. It's more expensive to buy a box to start the build...but it's much cheaper just to buy a set from a breaker who keeps the base cards and then adds to their margins there. You can buy a complete set of 2025 Topps Series 1 for $40 - you could of course wait for the factory set, but even if you wanted it now, the market is saying a complete set is worth like $30 in real money after fees/shipping/etc - when you'll need to open hundreds of dollars in product to make it close.

I think at some point a card company is going to finally rip the bandaid off and just put all the regular (non breaker delight) hits in a breaker's delight format and say "OK, Series 1, you get 10 cards, it's $75 a box, no base, 1 relic/auto, all parallels/inserts+" and see how it goes, and then just sell "base" versions in complete and team sets.

For me, "keep them in a big box" is what it is, and I think the solution one day will probably be to do one run through, take out anything that immediately makes sense to keep/sell individually, and then box the rest up in 400 or 800ct boxes and sell them as lots for pennies on the dollar to someone who wants to really piece it out. Once a card goes below $1 you need to do a lot of work to squeeze the remaining juice out of it.
I always thought instead of short printing the stars in sets, they should short print the commons for the few people that like to chase/build sets. That way both types of collectors are satisfied (more people get the star cards and fewer people get stuck with dreck).
 

NJ_Sox_Fan

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Jan 2, 2006
11,920
NJ
That's a pretty card
What set is that from?

/edit. I went looking immediately and found them. All Aces from 2025
There was also a set in 2023, but they skipped 2024

That Pedro card looks really nice though
Yes. They’re gorgeous in person. So much nicer than the 2023 version.
 

NJ_Sox_Fan

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Jan 2, 2006
11,920
NJ
Nice. This was my best Topps Chrome hit from the blasters I opened

97857

Or maybe this one

97858
 
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NJ_Sox_Fan

Member
SoSH Member
Jan 2, 2006
11,920
NJ
If anyone is bored and wants to look at (mostly) Nomar, Pedro, Ortiz and other Red Sox cards, I bought a light box and started an IG just for taking pics of cards @mgsportscards
 

Bongorific

Thinks he’s clever
SoSH Member
Jul 16, 2005
8,740
Balboa Towers
If anyone is bored and wants to look at (mostly) Nomar, Pedro, Ortiz and other Red Sox cards, I bought a light box and started an IG just for taking pics of cards @mgsportscards
I don’t think I’m looking at the right thing. That IG account has many been updated since 2016
 

Fishercat

Svelte and sexy!
SoSH Member
May 18, 2007
8,858
Manchester, N.H.
Man that's a fun IG. I picked up a fun little stack of 90s cards at the Attleboro Card Show yesterday and this IG sends me down memory lane as well. Very cool share.
 

NJ_Sox_Fan

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Jan 2, 2006
11,920
NJ
Man that's a fun IG. I picked up a fun little stack of 90s cards at the Attleboro Card Show yesterday and this IG sends me down memory lane as well. Very cool share.
Thanks! I have so many more to upload but I need to take the photos still. It’s a fun little side project to work on.
 

AlNipper49

Huge Member
Dope
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Apr 3, 2001
46,195
Mtigawi
Great idea, thank you!
I was talking to a group of baseball dads and one of them had/does a really cool similar idea. He collects them into mystery packs and gives them to the local police. They use it for local outreach for older / troubled / in-danger / homeless / etc kids. I got the contact information and am going to try this out.
 

NJ_Sox_Fan

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Jan 2, 2006
11,920
NJ
Love that Nomar card cut out to Fenway dimensions.
It’s great right? Just one of the many examples of cards that are not worth much, but really are unique/interesting.

For example, one of my favorite cards ever that has little to zero value

97957
 

AlNipper49

Huge Member
Dope
SoSH Member
Apr 3, 2001
46,195
Mtigawi

Fishercat

Svelte and sexy!
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May 18, 2007
8,858
Manchester, N.H.
Not that I think many (any?) of us are close to this realm, but window shopping the Fanatics Premier auction this time is kinda crazy.

This one has the Skenes and Jackson Holliday debut patch autos, PSA10s of two iconic, very difficult to grade cards (Jeter SP Rookie and Bird/Magic/Erving RC), a full 1952 Topps set, absolutely crazy stuff with bids hundreds of times more than I've ever spent on a card. Really fun to look through.
 

NJ_Sox_Fan

Member
SoSH Member
Jan 2, 2006
11,920
NJ
Not that I think many (any?) of us are close to this realm, but window shopping the Fanatics Premier auction this time is kinda crazy.

This one has the Skenes and Jackson Holliday debut patch autos, PSA10s of two iconic, very difficult to grade cards (Jeter SP Rookie and Bird/Magic/Erving RC), a full 1952 Topps set, absolutely crazy stuff with bids hundreds of times more than I've ever spent on a card. Really fun to look through.
Crazy that the Skenes will sell for many times more than a complete 1952 Topps set.
 

Fishercat

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May 18, 2007
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The Skenes is up to 550k (and then a buyer's premium). Which is mind-boggling. Someone noted that you could get the best card (as in the single highest priced card ever) of pretty much every notable pitcher from the 1990s to the present for like a third of that price. It's crazy.
 

JOBU

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Sep 22, 2021
10,025
I’ve recently gotten back into collecting after a multi-decade hiatus. Mostly interested in collecting sets from pre 1990. Any tips on how to go about this? Cheapest most efficient methods? I know cards from this time period are not very desirable (wax box era) but it’s what I like.

I also find the current market to be very confusing. I grabbed a Marcelo Mayer card a few weeks ago and there’s like 50 variants of the same card. When did that happen? And how do I go about figuring out exactly what I have? Picked it up in the bargain bin so I’m sure it’s nothing spectacular. I like the days of when base cards had value.
 

AlNipper49

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Dope
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Apr 3, 2001
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Mtigawi
I’ve recently gotten back into collecting after a multi-decade hiatus. Mostly interested in collecting sets from pre 1990. Any tips on how to go about this? Cheapest most efficient methods? I know cards from this time period are not very desirable (wax box era) but it’s what I like.

I also find the current market to be very confusing. I grabbed a Marcelo Mayer card a few weeks ago and there’s like 50 variants of the same card. When did that happen? And how do I go about figuring out exactly what I have? Picked it up in the bargain bin so I’m sure it’s nothing spectacular. I like the days of when base cards had value.
That’s my issue too.

I’ve been quietly collecting sets. I generally look on facebook marketplace and eBay, I have a good idea what commons will go for and will usually get a few decent cards in any bulk lot of vintage commons. Been slowly going through and buying the good ones from each set graded.

Right now I’m on 33 Goudey, 53 Bowman, 52-75 Topps.
 

Fishercat

Svelte and sexy!
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May 18, 2007
8,858
Manchester, N.H.
I’ve recently gotten back into collecting after a multi-decade hiatus. Mostly interested in collecting sets from pre 1990. Any tips on how to go about this? Cheapest most efficient methods? I know cards from this time period are not very desirable (wax box era) but it’s what I like.

I also find the current market to be very confusing. I grabbed a Marcelo Mayer card a few weeks ago and there’s like 50 variants of the same card. When did that happen? And how do I go about figuring out exactly what I have? Picked it up in the bargain bin so I’m sure it’s nothing spectacular. I like the days of when base cards had value.
Pre-1990s

I think a lot of it will depend on

A. How far pre-1990s are we talking
B. How much does condition matter to you.

LIke, if you want a set of 1987 Topps, honestly just go to some Estate sales or a FB Marketplace poster or two and pick up a huge box of junk cards and build or I'm guessing you can buy a full set for peanuts. Sportlots is great for sets of that era if you can find a seller with a lot of what you need - min price of like $.20 is a great way to piece together a high volume set and you can go back to the 70s with commons if condition isn't a huge deal.

Very generally

  • If it's in the pure junk wax era, you get still get packs and boxes for cheap - most box formats of 1988 Topps won't run you more than $40 and you get the fun of ripping, sorting ,storing, and avoid having to track a bajillion shipments.
  • For nearly anything outside of the junk era, the price of sealed boxes or packs will probably not make it to go that way - so you can buy singles on eBay, card shops, cardshows, sportlots, COMC, and other similar sites and forums. If you're doing a full set build like this, I'd recommend finding lots that will piece together major swarths of the set. Like if you wanted to build 1986 Topps, something like this would be an amazing base if it's not completely littered with duplicates. Even with true vintage sets, sellers will often bundle commons together to move them with one shipping charge. Those are your friends early. Nip mentioned a set (1953 Bowman) which I also built and early on low-end lots were my best friend for the first half of the set- a lot like this - 7 low grade common singles for $3.50 a card is a nice day for 1953 cards if you're okay with that condition.
  • If you're aiming for higher conditioned cards - you may need to more particular, comb for cards, look for graded cards, etc.

Current Market

So, parallels / intentional variants were introduced in the early-mid 1990s - it started with the Topps Finest refractor and for probably 20ish years card producers were reasonably responsible in parallel production - maybe a few variants in a set. However, as the card market started to really pick back up, card producers realized they had a bit of a problem - namely how to raise the value of boxes without turning off collectors. One of the many answers to this was introduction of variants/parallels to create "scarcity" and meet a requisite number of hits per box of cards - while being able to print more cards. It's really exploded in the last 5-10 years or so as card production and demand has spiked. Long story short - collectors like the idea of a bunch of variants as perceived value even if it drags most of the ship down and kills base card value. It's a very complex discussion. Some sets are up to like...70 distinct variants as they just try and bleed collectors dry and actual collectors only really seem to care about a few. It's a bummer.

For instance, 2024 Topps had a total of like 28 parallels in it. Of those, I think there is really only a major collector push for maybe like 5-7 of them. So like, whereas in 1985 what matters was the player you got, and in 1995 what mattered was the player and the set you got (and if you got a super rare parallel), in 2025 a valuable card needs to be the right player, set, card type (base vs. insert vs. relic vs. auto), parallel and timing. It's all much messier. If cards were scratch tickets pre-1990s, they're more like Powerball tickets now.

For your actual question, generally if I don't know I do an ebay search with all the details I know and try to find a matching picture. If it's a bargain bin, unnumbered card there should be a lot on there.
 
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JOBU

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Sep 22, 2021
10,025
Great write up.

Thanks for the information. One thing I’ve come across is that a wax box is more than a vendor box/complete set boxes. What’s the deal with that? Is that just because the cards are sealed and in better shape generally? I’m talking like a sealed wax box with 36 packs of cards.

I don’t know much about collecting other than I like to do it and it’s fun. But it’s weird to me that you can buy a box for like $50 with 500 cards in there and yet something like a PSA 10 Nolan Ryan card in the 1986 topps set is a $2,000 card. There seems to be a disconnect in my brain between the box value and card value. It doesn’t add up in my head.
 

Fishercat

Svelte and sexy!
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May 18, 2007
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Manchester, N.H.
Great write up.

Thanks for the information. One thing I’ve come across is that a wax box is more than a vendor box/complete set boxes. What’s the deal with that? Is that just because the cards are sealed and in better shape generally? I’m talking like a sealed wax box with 36 packs of cards.

I don’t know much about collecting other than I like to do it and it’s fun. But it’s weird to me that you can buy a box for like $50 with 500 cards in there and yet something like a PSA 10 Nolan Ryan card in the 1986 topps set is a $2,000 card. There seems to be a disconnect in my brain between the box value and card value. It doesn’t add up in my head.
It'll depend on the product. Super broadly, if a wax box is more than a complete set is it's the chance to get something that's not in the complete set box or multiple cards of what you really want.

So like, back to 1988 Topps - you can get a complete set of 792 cards for probably $15 shipped from someone who built it or $30 (likely less) of a true factory sealed, unopened set. Whereas a sealed box is probably more like $40-$45 shipped for 540 cards. Compared to a hand collated set, I would guess the condition of those in sealed packs is probably a bit better than the hand-collated set. For the factory sealed set, a lot of people buying those boxes are paying a bit extra for the thrill of ripping open packs or for cheap packs to give to people or for something fun and cheap to sell at a store, things like that. There's just more utility with the packs. There is nothing in the packs that isn't in the set so - but it's sure more fun to build.

For more modern stuff, it's a bit more complicated. A 2024 Topps Complete Set is like $50 on Amazon - it includes Series 1 and Series 2 but not the update Series - and it includes a few exclusive cards - absolutely the cheaper way to get that complete set. However, there are players - often important ones- who are only in Topps Update, so if the goal is a true master set you may need to buy a set someone compiled or open those cards yourself. More relevantly, the cards that really can rack up the value are the inserts, autos, rare parallels, and the like and those are only in packs.

Personally, if I had a kid, I'd actually do the silly thing and grab the complete sets. Nice boxes, a nice little bonus, and much easier and cheaper than putting it together yourself, but that's the difference.

For the second paragraph, it's just that PSA 10s of these older cards are EXTREMELY difficult due to the lack of QA/QC when printing - and '86 Topps was particularly bad. Especially with the black borders and general lack of care in handling. The Bonds rookie was in 1986 Topps Traded (so not even in that main set, just its own small little box) - SGC has graded 66,22 of these and there is a 3% gem rate (225) - around 80% of them are SGC8, SGC8.5, or SGC9. Nolan Ryan - has had 585 copies submitted to SGC - and 0 have gemmed. 1986 Topps in general has a 2% gem rate with SGC, and that's with people extracting from factory sets and 40 year old sealed boxes.

In an odd way, the PSA10 Quality Nolan Ryan is kind of like the huge "chase" hit in this stuff...because odds of finding it are so low.
 

JOBU

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Sep 22, 2021
10,025
I have a question building sets. How do you guys do it? I was thinking of putting them into individual 3 ring binders with the 9 space sleeve sheets. Just having them in a box doesn’t seem very fulfilling to me.

Also what is the preferred method of ordering cards? Just sequential order? Most sets I’ve been collecting are all out of order in regards to players/teams. It’s all jumbled. I think I’d prefer to just sequence the cards by team/player even if the numbers aren’t sequential. I’m sure it’s all personal preference at the end of the day. But just trying to get a gauge on how to tackle this for a newb.
 

AlNipper49

Huge Member
Dope
SoSH Member
Apr 3, 2001
46,195
Mtigawi
I had that question above and this is what I settled on:

1960 and below - everything gets top loaded and put into a decent case.

61-79 - everything in penny sleeves in a row box.

Junk Wax - row boxes unsleeved. We can buy unopened sets from this era for basically free so I didn’t over think it.

Anything graded goes into it’s own case and I place a placeholder in the set to remember that I have it.

Anything ‘decent’ ($10 or more) goes into another case with just top loaders.

The above two also handle my one-offs/non-set stuff.

I also have two ‘junk drawers’ - cards that I like / want that don’t need to be sleeved and the step up, ones that I think may be something that get a sleeve and archived away for a rainy day to go through. Examples of these would be modern rookies, crap like base Mayer rookies. An example of a non-sleeved one that I want to keep would be something like a second year Gwynn. Probably like 50 cents but I like him.

There is a lot of discretion in this system. I tried to make it better but it felt like a second job.
 

Fishercat

Svelte and sexy!
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May 18, 2007
8,858
Manchester, N.H.
I have a question building sets. How do you guys do it? I was thinking of putting them into individual 3 ring binders with the 9 space sleeve sheets. Just having them in a box doesn’t seem very fulfilling to me.

Also what is the preferred method of ordering cards? Just sequential order? Most sets I’ve been collecting are all out of order in regards to players/teams. It’s all jumbled. I think I’d prefer to just sequence the cards by team/player even if the numbers aren’t sequential. I’m sure it’s all personal preference at the end of the day. But just trying to get a gauge on how to tackle this for a newb.
I haven't built a ton but like with Nip it depends on set.

When I built my '53 Bowman, they are all in card savers (or slabs) in a tall sorter/shoebox in sequential order of the cards - they are slightly oversized so I standardized their toploaders for consistency and the slabs make display in a binder inconsistent - I'd have to get a slab binder and place
When I built the '98 SP Chirography auto set, it's only 30 cards and not numbered so I put them in One Touch holders (one is slabbed), and got a wall display case with UV protection and placed it on my wall. I will likely eventually circle them out for something else, when I do it'll probably be a similar shoebox. I did very similarly with a WWE auto set I built except they're in a top loader binder - ordered by card number on the checklist.
When I built '23 (I think) Allen and Ginter it was just numerical order in a sorter box.

With that set, the beauty of set collection is that you make that choice. For instance, when I did a rainbow, I did put them all in a toploader binder in rarity order (so it went /5, /5, /8, /10, /10, /11, etc.) Some day I will switch that around and put it in color order (which will be more aesthetically pleasing). I think organizing by team actually makes a lot of sense or even by player in sets that have a lot of player cards repeated. I'd also consider "ease of individual card location" as part of this.