71 replies to this topic

[SeoulSoxFan]

So I've got a budget of about $1,500 to $2,500 for a new PC build. It'll be for a workstation (lots of web design & coding work), and occasional gaming (Civ5, Anno series, Company of Heroes -- yes still play it).

I've got my heart set on this monster Cosmos II case (I'll be switching from a Mac Pro), but the only issue is I've never built a PC from scratch before. I am however, comfortable adding peripherals and even replaced thermal paste on a Dell laptop once.

What are the chances I'll be blowing a $300 CPU or have cabling that resembles a Halloween spider web decoration? Is it worth the time invested or just go get a pre-built system?

[AlNipper49]

Go to tomshardware and just parasite someone else's build. It's like a cheat button.

It's really easy to put together a system. Drivers will be the biggest pain.

[Mack]

Go to tomshardware and just parasite someone else's build. It's like a cheat button.

It's really easy to put together a system. Drivers will be the biggest pain.

This.

Here is a link to get you started: http://www.tomshardw...-680,3212.html.

If you feel too nervous to do the (generally straigforward physical) construction or are worried about the sorftware side, buy your parts at Microcenter, and have them do the build. I think they charge between $70-$100 for a build that boots to the OS. Do not get build insurance or anything like that however, since you are immeadiately covered for at least 90 days (and the parts for a year probably).

Do yourself a favor and consider buying a solid state hard drive. With the type of hardware proposed in the build from the link above, the (proposed) hard drive will be a bottleneck. Solid state will give at least marginally better performance, and you have the money.

[changer591]

Another great website in terms of figuring out what kind of system/parts to get is techreport.com...on there, they have system build guides and they update it to reflect the changing technology every few months. As far as being afraid to put together a system, don't be. If you are not shy about replacing video cards, other stuff, then the only thing you really have to sweat is finally dealing with putting a motherboard in and the processor. Everything else is easy. I actually have the original Cosmos case, and it will make it VERY easy for you if you want to take a little extra time, to reroute the wiring so the inside looks nice and clean. But I will warn you, the case is gigantic.
Here's a few tips if you decide to tackle it:
1) Download ALL the drivers/software for your new parts before you put it together and throw it on a USB stick or something. It makes life way easier not to be swapping around CDs with out-dates drivers that you just have to update again when you finish.
2) Find out the motherboard you will get getting and peruse the forums on the manufacturers website to see if there are problems with it, whether or not you will need to flash the BIOS to fix something, etc.
3) Set aside a full day for it...you will experience frustrations, errors, but it will be worth it in the end.
4) Make sure you take some time to look at the motherboard manual and make a note of all the different connections...especially the case to motherboard power connections for stuff like the lights and fans in the case...that is really the biggest pain because the pins are so small.

Other than that, there is nothing to worry about. The worst thing you can do is mess up, and find that you need to check all your power connections.

PS: Don't worry about blowing up your processor...today's motherboards know when to immediately turn off if the temperature on the processor gets too high. Of course, if that happens, it's only probably because you didn't seat the heatsink/fan on the chip properly...but even that's hard to mess up.

Edited by changer591, 27 June 2012 - 07:57 AM.

[crow216]

The biggest issues with building that I've encountered are DOA hardware (which can sometimes be really hard to identify), snapping the heatsink into place above the CPU if you have sausage fingers (I have sausage thumbs), and overclocking without proper cooling. Everything else is incredibly easy. There are a couple things that might take you a few minutes to figure out (the led and power button wires are extremely tiny) but everything else is practically color coordinated and impossible to mess up unless you rush.

Don't force any wires anywhere. If it's not plugging in and snapping, you probably don't have it in right.

Pick a motherboard with enough PCI slots and make sure it's compatible with the ram you want.

Lastly, my general order of choosing my parts is this (Processor >> Motherboard >> Ram >> Hard Drive >> Video Card >> Sound Card >> DVD/Blu Ray Drives >> Case >> Extra Fans >> Calculate PSU requirements >> PSU)

Things you will need that don't come with the parts -

Get an extra 2 or 3 Sata cables (They're only about $3 each)
If you have an old monitor that doesn't have DVI or HDMI, get a converter.
Operating System (usually about $99 for an OEM 64bit)
Extra case/motherboard screws (some cases come with them, but not all)
and lastly, patience. If you do it right, you can build the whole thing in 60 minutes but you're going to want to do it slower than that. Pay attention to where your PSU wires are going and what they're in the way of because then you're going to find yourself pulling plugs out just to sneak a part in under a fat wire.

[SeoulSoxFan]

Thanks for the AWESOME advice guys. I really appreciate it.

I've looked at Tom's Hardware, and also Maximum PC's recommended lists. So looks like it's something I can tackle, but as many of you mentioned I am unreasonably afraid of choosing a right motherboard (but Cosmos II will take any board - even a server blade!) and the CPU install.

Regarding Cosmos II, there are some videos that demonstrate just how huge this monster is:



Unfortunately I may need to find a smaller case, as it won't fit the desktop holder accessory for the new standing desk (we're getting in re-doing our office):

http://www.thehumans...dmill-desk.html
http://www.thehumans...ale-cpu600.html

But then again, I can leave the desktop on the floor (despite "Jo-ann"'s warning in the video) and get long cables.

I'll do a bit more research and post the components - again, many, many thanks!

[shlincoln]

Lastly, my general order of choosing my parts is this (Processor >> Motherboard >> Ram >> Hard Drive >> Video Card >> Sound Card >> DVD/Blu Ray Drives >> Case >> Extra Fans >> Calculate PSU requirements >> PSU)

I personally haven't purchased a sound card in years. The chipsets they include on MB's these days are plenty good, unless you want to do DAW stuff. I'd also value the video card more than hard drives, but that's mostly becauset it's usually the priciest part I'll put in a build.

Things you will need that don't come with the parts -
Get an extra 2 or 3 Sata cables (They're only about $3 each)

Maybe it's just the MB's I buy, but I've never purchased a sata cable on its own and I'm drowning in the things.

[crow216]

I personally haven't purchased a sound card in years. The chipsets they include on MB's these days are plenty good, unless you want to do DAW stuff. I'd also value the video card more than hard drives, but that's mostly becauset it's usually the priciest part I'll put in a build.


Maybe it's just the MB's I buy, but I've never purchased a sata cable on its own and I'm drowning in the things.

I do this as a hobby and most of the parts I buy are OEM, which means that they don't come with any wires at all. The motherboard usually comes with a couple but that's never enough for me.

Edit: Also - As for sound card, it depends what kind of system you have. My computer surround system cost me about $600 when I bought it and I like to have a strong sound card. Motherboard cards work okay, but for $50-75 you could buy one that can blow you away with the right speakers. The worst part about my computer surround sound is that it sounds better than my TV surround sound.

Edited by crow216, 28 June 2012 - 12:04 PM.

[zenter]

Honestly, the difference between replacing parts and building your own is rather miniscule.

I've built / rebuilt /upgraded my system for 14 years, with varying level of changes. Most recently (in 2010), for about $800, I got a new CPU, HSF, mobo, RAM, case, PSU, HDD, and BD drive to make virtually a brand-new HTPC system. All parts from Newegg.

[wibi]

I personally haven't purchased a sound card in years. The chipsets they include on MB's these days are plenty good, unless you want to do DAW stuff. I'd also value the video card more than hard drives, but that's mostly becauset it's usually the priciest part I'll put in a build.

If you are getting a decent sized SSD you are looking at about the same price as a decent video card (at least as of today's newegg prices)

Unless you are building a high end gaming machine the SSD will provide you more value for your buck than a video card will.

[crow216]

At this point with video cards, you could get a knock your socks off card for between $150-200. My last build I went a little crazy because I don't plan on building again for atleast a year or two. However, video cards are also extremely easy to replace and if you ever need more, buy more.

SSD is a must as well. It's easily the biggest upgrade you could make to your PC and notice a performance boost instantly.

[changer591]

Just to chime in again...the Cosmos case IS huge. That's really it's only downfall...but the size makes is really easy to put the computer together and making the insides nice and clean. However, there are plenty of smaller mid-size cases out there that are high quality as well. On the subject of SSDs, I just got one a few weeks back (my first one...a Samsung 256 GB one), and made it my primary boot drive, and the differences are incredible. That being said, the prices on them are expected to drop even more in the coming months as they become more and more popular...but as another poster said, you can easily skimp a bit on a video card and put that money toward a kickass SSD and your boot times into Windows (or whatever OS) will be in the seconds. And video cards these days just keep getting better and better every few months, so your $150 card today was a $300 card last year. Unless you feel the need to always be on the cutting edge, you can easily find something that will suit your needs for cheap.
On the subject of sounds cards...I've always wondered if it's worth it, but I've also always had one and disabled the onboard sound from the motherboard. But really, if you are on a budget, that would be the first thing I'd omit before looking to cut corners on anything else.
As for SATA cables...yeah, motherboards will usually package a few in the box, but they might not be the right length or have the right connection (in terms of a right angle or straight out) for what you intend on doing. Plus, they are a few bucks each, so it never hurts to buy a few extra just in case.
I would urge you again to check out techreport.com...no I'm not a contributor to them or anything, but they are the only site that I've ever been to that CLEARLY lays out a parts guide for certain budgets (not to mention provide easy links to newegg for purchase if you like them). The actually go through every critical part and link to their own reviews on said parts. I found sites like tomshardware to a bit too...technical? for me and also hard to find the information I want. Here's a link to their latest system guide: http://techreport.com/articles.x/22972
Good luck! While it's true these days that putting together your own system doesn't save as much money as it used to (compared to buying something from Dell or HP, etc.), it IS kind of rewarding when you first boot it up successfully...and you have total control on what goes onto the thing and not have to spend an hour trying to remove AOL and all that other proprietary junk that companies will stick on your hard drive.

Edited by changer591, 29 June 2012 - 08:03 AM.

[shlincoln]

Edit: Also - As for sound card, it depends what kind of system you have. My computer surround system cost me about $600 when I bought it and I like to have a strong sound card. 

Whereas the speakers I have cost <$100 so the built-in sound card is more than adequate.  So sure, I can see the point.  I'm just a cheapskate, so if I don't have to buy something I won't.

At this point with video cards, you could get a knock your socks off card for between $150-200. My last build I went a little crazy because I don't plan on building again for atleast a year or two. However, video cards are also extremely easy to replace and if you ever need more, buy more.

Video cards are the only component I'm willing to spend > $200 on, but yeah something like a 7770 (or whatever its nVidia equivalent is) should be plenty of video card these days at a highly reasonable price. If I was going to be putting a system together for someone I'd probably go 7770 (for myself OCD demands a 7850 to replace my 5850).

SSD is a must as well. It's easily the biggest upgrade you could make to your PC and notice a performance boost instantly.

Fully agree.  Though, if it were me I'd grab a128gb SSD for ~$100 and then also get a 1TB or greater traditional drive for porn music, movies and other crap.

[crow216]

Fully agree. Though, if it were me I'd grab a128gb SSD for ~$100 and then also get a 1TB or greater traditional drive for porn music, movies and other crap.

cough cough

[SeoulSoxFan]

Alright, the deed is done. Below are the parts I just ordered (sorry about the horrible formatting)

Some choices I made:

• Since I can save the 128MB SSD from my Mac Pro tower, I went with a standard 3TB hard drive for now
• No bluetooth with the Sabertooth board, but I can always add a dongle later
• Wanted to get a better CPU cooler, but 1) I won't be doing much overclocking, and 2) Corsair cooler is supposed to be an easier install, especially for the Corsair case
• The Sandy-bridge CPU was the most affordable of the 2011 socket group, although you pay much more in the 2011 compatible MoBo
• Really wanted to get a TV Tuner (Ceton), but I'm hoping to get a DirecTV subscription this year and use their DTV2PC app - just to stream Pats games
• Case choice was tough, but in the end I went with a smaller mid-tower, rather than the gargantuan Cosmos II -- mostly because it will need to fit the standing/powered desk we'll be getting in a bit (most likely this model)

This will knock the socks off my early 2009 MacPro, at about just over 60% of the cost. But I must say, I am scared shitless to blow a part or have a piece or two DOA.

Qty. Product Description Savings Total Price 1 XFX Double D FX-787A-CDFC Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
Item #: N82E16814150605
Return Policy: VGA Standard Return Policy -$30.00 Instant
$20.00 Mail-in Rebate Card $349.99
$319.99 1 Seagate Barracuda ST3000DM001 3TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Item #: N82E16822148844
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy -$30.00 Instant $179.99
$149.99 1 LG Black 14X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 5X DVD-RAM 12X BD-ROM 4MB Cache SATA BDXL Blu-ray Burner,3D Play Back (WH14NS40) - OEM
Item #: N82E16827136250
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy -$10.00 Instant $79.99
$69.99 1 HT | OMEGA STRIKER 7.1 Channels PCI Interface Sound Card
Item #: N82E16829271001
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy -$14.00 Instant $89.99
$75.99 1 Cables To Go 43221 50Pkg 6in Releasable/Reusable Cable Ties
Item #: N82E16899996091
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy -$7.00 Instant $12.99
$5.99 1 Corsair Special Edition White Graphite Series 600T Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Item #: N82E16811139005
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy $179.99 1 ASUS Sabertooth X79 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Item #: N82E16813131801
Return Policy: Limited Replacement Only Return Policy -$10.00 Instant $339.99
$329.99 1 CORSAIR Professional Series HX850 (CMPSU-850HX) 850W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817139011
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy -$15.00 Instant
$10.00 Mail-in Rebate Card $189.99
$174.99 1 Intel Core i7-3820 Sandy Bridge-E 3.6GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 2011 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73820
Item #: N82E16819115229
Return Policy: CPU Replacement Only Return Policy $299.99 1 CORSAIR Vengeance 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory Model CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10
Item #: N82E16820233232
Return Policy: Memory Standard Return Policy -$25.00 Instant $259.99
$234.99 1 Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound
Item #: N82E16835100007
Return Policy: Consumable Item Refund Only Return Policy -$2.00 Instant $11.95
$9.95 1 CORSAIR CAFA50 120mm CPU Cooler
Item #: N82E16835181012
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy $15.00 Mail-in Rebate Card $3

Edited by SeoulSoxFan, 11 July 2012 - 12:11 AM.

[SeoulSoxFan]

By the way, all of your suggestions were FANTASTIC - especially regarding Tom's Hardware. That site rocks.

Also bought a separate sound card, tx to Crow's and others' suggestions. I have an old Sony HT amp that amplifies it out of the Mac Pro now (I plug in my headphones), and hoping the HT card will make it sound a bit better w/o the crappy noise out of the stock Realtek onboard chip.

[AlNipper49]

Good call on the case

I always feel the pull of buying a big boy case. The one time I did I deeply regretted it, they're just so freaking big.

[rembrat]

Bumping this. Thanks for the advice. I'm looking to build my 1st PC in the coming months too. Just like Seoul, I'll be using it for web design & coding + I'd like to try PC gaming.

[rembrat]

So, I've been talking to crow via PMs and he thought I should post the base build we are looking at and get more opinions.

We are at


I think I'm sold on the case. I don't want to dump a lot of money into that and it looks sufficient. The old dinosaur Hard Drive looks fine too and so does the CPU, wondering if I should bump up the GPU a bit so its closer to the price range of the CPU.

Every online calculator that I use gives me a rough estimate of about 400W that I'll need to power this build so I'm wondering if a 750W is really needed? I'd like to add an extra 100W just incase so something around 500-550W? What does everyone think. This totals out to about $1000 factoring taxes and the like.

Also, suggestions to anything are welcomed.

[Nick Kaufman]

I think it looks good for whah you say you want to do.

My only quibbles would be matters of personal preference for which there is no one answer. For example I like Lian Li cases both for their elegant design and for the thought they put into them to make it functional. Now, they are more expensive, but I am of the theory that sometimes going cheap in the short term can be expensive in the long term. I think the Antec 300 is a popular model, so you probably won't go wrong there, but check a case like the Lian Li PC60-FN and see how they compare.

My other suggestion is something you should take seriously though. Think of the noise your computer is going to make. If you re sitting next to your pc the whole day, the loud noise of 5 fans or the irregular pitch coming from the power supply can DRIVE YOU NUTS.

So, before you buy, check all of the noise producing components and see how they stack up in that department:

Check CPU Heatsinks (i didn't see you include one btw and the ones that come with Intel are considered a joke)

Check fans that come with the CPU.

Check Case fans. For all kinds of fans, manufacturers offer specifications on CFM (how much air is produced) and on decibels (how loud they are).

Check the fans on the video card. These can be the worst because they usually have the lowest diameter - about 80 mm - and the lower the diameter, the more noise a fan makes. Plus the fan would tend to start and stop depending on the workload you put onto it. This is the reason I get fanless video cards and sacrifice on performance.

Check the power supply. Not only some times the fan can make noise, but so do the coils in them. That whine can also drive you nuts.

Overall, I want the less moving parts as possible, being as silent as possible while being as efficient at their jobs as possible.

There's some soundproofing you can do on the case - by adding foam on the doors for example, but I ve never tried anything like that.

Edited by Nick Kaufman, 15 November 2012 - 12:29 PM.

[teddykgb]

It's going to be hard to check the sound of a newegg order, though.

I was really getting ready to freak out until I saw the SSD on the last line. For anyone who reads this thread in the future, you're completely insane if you don't drop an SSD into a new build.

I'd stick with the Power Supply at higher watts. Cheap power supplies are bad news and you can run into problem with getting enough current down the rails. Yes, you might be able to downsize without a problem, but then the upside to doing your own build is that you can keep your machine current through the years swapping out a few components here and there. A good, safe power supply should last you through a few revisions of the build, you'll really hate it if you have to buy a new one when you decide to upgrade some component later. The video card should be sufficient unless you're really planning on getting into PC gaming. At which point I might even wonder if the onboard graphics on the intel chip might not be good enough. Might save you some money you could spend elsewhere on the build. I have that Antec case and I don't really love it. The panels are a bitch to reconnect and it's larger than I would like. If i were building again, I'd probably buy a micro board since I don't really run many components anymore, just need a few SATA connections for the hard drives

Edited by teddykgb, 15 November 2012 - 12:37 PM.

[Nick Kaufman]

There's a whole site devoted to quiet pc parts called silent pc reviews. It's got a forum and everything!

Also, you can always browse the reviews using the find function of your browser for words like noisy, quiet etc.

[zenter]

So, I've been talking to crow via PMs and he thought I should post the base build we are looking at and get more opinions.

We are at
...

I think I'm sold on the case. I don't want to dump a lot of money into that and it looks sufficient. The old dinosaur Hard Drive looks fine too and so does the CPU, wondering if I should bump up the GPU a bit so its closer to the price range of the CPU.

Every online calculator that I use gives me a rough estimate of about 400W that I'll need to power this build so I'm wondering if a 750W is really needed? I'd like to add an extra 100W just incase so something around 500-550W? What does everyone think. This totals out to about $1000 factoring taxes and the like.

Also, suggestions to anything are welcomed.

Comments/Questions

• What are your intended uses of this computer?
• Yes, stick with the 750W PSU. Better safe than sorry.
• Yes, make sure it's one of those quiet PSUs. More expensive, less annoying.
• I hook my computer up to the TV. If you plan on doing so, get a BD Drive.
• I don't really play any games so I don't need a hardcore video card (use onboard instead). If you're like me, you can probably save ~$150 by killing that card.
• I always get an aftermarket CPU fan. Stock are typically noisy and less reliable, with cheaper heatsinks.

Hope that helps.

[rembrat]

My other suggestion is something you should take seriously though. Think of the noise your computer is going to make. If you re sitting next to your pc the whole day, the loud noise of 5 fans or the irregular pitch coming from the power supply can DRIVE YOU NUTS.

-snip-

That is something I do not want. One of the things I loved about my shitty HP at home is that it didn't make a sound, ever, unless I pushed it. I'll def look into this.

I was really getting ready to freak out until I saw the SSD on the last line. For anyone who reads this thread in the future, you're completely insane if you don't drop an SSD into a new build.

-snip-

Yea, I've seen what booting from a SSD does. Holy fuck. That's a must have.

As far as the PSU, that makes a lot of sense and I think I'll stick with the original wattage. And I since I've always been a console person I def want to try PC Gaming. I mean, I already sit at my PC chair playing my XBox off my monitor so why not go all the way.

Comments/Questions

• What are your intended uses of this computer?
• Yes, stick with the 750W PSU. Better safe than sorry.
• Yes, make sure it's one of those quiet PSUs. More expensive, less annoying.
• I hook my computer up to the TV. If you plan on doing so, get a BD Drive.
• I don't really play any games so I don't need a hardcore video card (use onboard instead). If you're like me, you can probably save ~$150 by killing that card.
• I always get an aftermarket CPU fan. Stock are typically noisy and less reliable, with cheaper heatsinks.

Hope that helps.

My current PC just can't handle what I want to do which is have multiple huge files in Photoshop and illustrator running while using a texteditor or IDE. I could probably build something smaller to meet these needs but I also want something powerful enough to run games and the like. I've only every owned shitty prebuilt HPs. Basically I want something that can help me work but also be a toy that I can tinker as a side hobby.

Thanks for the rapid feedback, guys. So i'll look into quieter fans on everything.

Would 2 case fans be sufficient? An intake in the front and exhaust in the rear? Do I need one on top?

[Nick Kaufman]

- Check that the Antec PSU is getting good reviews on the sound dept. I am not so sure that 750W is not an overkill.Look into Seasonics for quiet quality performance.

- You got one fan for the cpu seathink. 120mm. You re probably going to replace the fan coming with the heatsink.

- One 140mm fan for the front.

- One 120mm for the back.

Some people get crazy and add on the top and the back, but I don't. Those people also overclock too though, so there's probably that.

- Google photoshop requirements. Photoshop adds for a ton of memory which you have and a "scratch disk" which my understanding is that it's different than a separate disk where you put your page file (which you should). So if that understanding is correct, perhaps you can add a small 20Gb SSD or something. But google for photoshop requirements.

[crow216]

Rem, 650 would be the lowest I'd go. I look at my power supply, tower, and SSDs as investments for future pcs. (As well as fans and PCI stuff) so, by spending an extra $20 on a psu, you can foolproof your future upgrades. Chiefly a gpu.

I can confirm that the antec 300 is not super silent but I also have 4 fans. I'll post my build later. It's very similar to what we made above.

[crow216]

Also, I don't agree about the heatsink that comes with the CPU. The sandy and ivy bridge chips run cool already. Throw some artic silver on the CPU and you should be fine with the stock fans in that tower.

[zenter]

Also, I don't agree about the heatsink that comes with the CPU. The sandy and ivy bridge chips run cool already. Throw some artic silver on the CPU and you should be fine with the stock fans in that tower.

I guess I haven't built a PC since 2009 (has it been that long?) so my advice is from an older era. Thanks for the correction, crow.

[crow216]

I guess I haven't built a PC since 2009 (has it been that long?) so my advice is from an older era. Thanks for the correction, crow.

Well, you're not alone in your sentiment that the stock heatsinks are no modern marvel. It's just that the chips, unless overclocked, do a really good job staying cool under the stock sinks. That being said, heatsinks are not a huge expense and if it's a concern for only a few bucks, just go ahead and buy one. In the past though? Yes, nightmares.

Sidenote for Rem - Installing the CPU and the heatsink is scary. You have to push much harder than you're going to be comfortable with. Make sure you don't crack your mobo.

[rembrat]

Gee, thanks.

[teddykgb]

Also, I don't agree about the heatsink that comes with the CPU. The sandy and ivy bridge chips run cool already. Throw some artic silver on the CPU and you should be fine with the stock fans in that tower.

Agree that a new heat sink wont be necessary unless you over clock. Disagree about arctic silver. The ivy bridge chip ships with a thermal paste already applied to the stock hratsink so applying additional could harm instead of help

[crow216]

Agree that a new heat sink wont be necessary unless you over clock. Disagree about arctic silver. The ivy bridge chip ships with a thermal paste already applied to the stock hratsink so applying additional could harm instead of help

That's absolutely right. I didn't know it was pre-applied.

[FelixMantilla]

Why not water-cool the system? It will be a lot quieter.

[MannysDestination]

If you want to game, beef up the GPU. Double the price on your vid card and you'll get a lot more life out of the part, max settings on new PC games is one of the only reasons to build your own gaming rig, enjoy it. Getting a 750W PSU with a weaker GPU is a bit of a waste. Go big or go home.

[rembrat]

Found a new case and I think it fits the bill.



But now that I'm reading it seems that the MoBo we were looking at, GA-Z68 XP, has been shipping with BIOS that doesn't support Ivy Bridge and some with boot loop issues.

[JerBear]

Are you near a MicroCenter? They typically have crazy deals on Intel processors, way cheaper than anyone else but you have to pick up in store. The processor you are looking at is $170 in store. You could also get the i7 version for $230.

i5 - http://www.microcent..._1155_Processor
i7 - http://www.microcent..._1155_Processor

Also, I'm a big fan of Antec's Sonata case. I have the Sonata III and I love it. It looks like it was replaced by the ProtoBlack. The Solo II also looks pretty slick.

ProtoBlack - http://www.newegg.co...N82E16811129086
Solo II - http://www.newegg.co...N82E16811129177

Edited by JerBear, 16 November 2012 - 10:06 AM.

[rembrat]

Yea, I think I placed my order before I read your post. There is one in Yonkers, 15 minutes away from me, that I will definitely use the next time I build or if I add a drive here or there.

I got the parts Tuesday and made just about every rookie mistake one can make without damaging anything. I installed the I/O panel to the case and left the foil backing and then bitched that my MoBo was a few centimeters off from where the standoffs were mounted. I tried like hell to make this one 3 pin (fan) go into a 4 pin header on the MoBO until I releazed that my case came with a fan controller that you have to plug ALL your fans to then plug the one 4 pin into any fan header on the MoBo. Let's see, mounting the drives took at least half an hour total because spacing, wiring issues and orientation. Argh. Oh and not having a magnetic screwdriver was mistake numero uno.

There was a 10 minute peroid there were I thought something was DOA because once I installed everything, plugged her in, and hit the power button NOTHING HAPPENED. My mistake was not plugging in the PSU into an outlet that gave it enough juice. I had no idea my extension cord had a 'Master Supply' outlet.

But it was a great learning experience and she is up and running right now. Just spent the last day getting drivers and formatting stuff and downloading things I need. The usual post new computer crap. So awesome. Thanks for everything guys.

[crow216]

That's it? How's it perform?

[rembrat]

Great. It boots up instantaneously. Programs and browsers open up lightning fast too. I run the fans on low for now and so its silent. I couldn't be happier.

[rembrat]

I'm thinking of cutting out some of the bloatware Windows 7 comes with to free up even more memory. Usually its around 1.5GB - 1.7GB without running anything big. I think I can get that down to around 500MB just tinkering with all the crap that comes with this thing.

EDIT: Really the only thing holding me back is my shitty Verizon DSL internet but I'm planning on going with Time Warner Cable's Turbo package in the coming days.

Edited by rembrat, 23 November 2012 - 12:27 AM.

[SeoulSoxFan]

Congrats rembrat!

My rig is still going strong, and have been the best PC/Mac I've ever owned. For anyone considering this, it's really not as scary if you put a bit of research and time into buying and building it. As rem says, it's also a great learning experience and saves a ton of $$$.

[OttoC]

Great. It boots up instantaneously. Programs and browsers open up lightning fast too. I run the fans on low for now and so its silent. I couldn't be happier.

Out of curiosity, what do you get for subscores when you run Windows Experience Index?

[rembrat]

Out of curiosity, what do you get for subscores when you run Windows Experience Index?

[crow216]

Some insane SSD sales today...

http://reviews.cnet.com/marketplace/

256gb for $100 and 128 for $50

[OttoC]

I was curious about how well my 4-year-old Dell was holding up.I did expand the RAM to 12GB DDR3 and replaced the video card with a PCI Express 2.1 1GB DDR3 XFX R6750 Core Edition, so I am getting 7.4/7.5/6.9/6.9/5.9||5.9. An SSD card for my system drive would be nice. One of the factors in my older machine showing up well, I think, is that it is an Intel Core i7. Thanks.

[rembrat]

That's pretty great for anything that is 4 years old.

Yea, crow, I'm kicking myself looking at these deals for ssds. Oh well next year, ill pick one up.

[Nick Kaufman]

I got the Samsung 840 and it's surprising to me that it sells for $170 right now, while the reception is lukewarm. I looked at the specs and reviews and it seemed to me to be faster than both the 830 and the Intel 520.

Are people so turned off by the TLC because it will supposedly last less time? People bitch and moan about a drive that's only going to last 7-10 years. I can guarantee you that you ll have a different drive by then!

[rembrat]

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16822148844

3TB Seagate drive for $90. Ow, that hurts my balls considering I paid about $80 for my 1TB.

[crow216]

Are you happy right now? Are you likely to exceed the space you have? That's all that matters! (I'm trying to help)

[rembrat]

Yea, no, I'm happy. It's going to take me a while to fill this one up. imjussayin'