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2011 Golf Thread


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45 replies to this topic

#1 Plantiers Wart

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Posted 01 April 2011 - 08:00 AM

Little later than last year's thread start, but with the winter we had, I guess it's to be expected.

My course opened Wednesday at noon...and promptly has been buried in another inch or so of slush 36 hours later.

But here's hoping the spring starts soon.

#2 yeahlunchbox

  • 155 posts

Posted 01 April 2011 - 09:32 AM

Does anybody have experience shopping at Golftown stores? One just opened up nearby.

#3 leithbones

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Posted 02 April 2011 - 04:47 PM

Too lazy to write it again.
Rules.
Hit me.

Link 2010 post

(Colin-- This year you pay in SamAdams-LegalTender, accepted by PGA Pros everywhere)

#4 Dave Stapleton


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Posted 12 April 2011 - 01:32 PM

Does anybody have experience shopping at Golftown stores? One just opened up nearby.


These are great from a pure experience and selection factor. They have full golf simulators at the rear of the store and a wide choice of clubs. I was also impressed with the golf apparel and shoe choices. You name it they have it. Right now you won't get any deals, however. It's really a golfers playground for those willing to pay full price.

I also think they do full club fitting as well.

#5 CSteinhardt


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Posted 13 April 2011 - 07:27 PM

Too lazy to write it again.
Rules.
Hit me.

Link 2010 post

(Colin-- This year you pay in SamAdams-LegalTender, accepted by PGA Pros everywhere)


OK, I'll bite.

I carry a left-handed wedge in my bag sometimes, because I tend to end up under some nasty trees and since I switch hit in baseball, and have room for the club...

I am a right-handed golfer on a typical unobstructed shot, with the exception of a handful of sharply breaking left-to-right putts, which I hit left-handed.

Ball under tree where my only play would be left-handed. By choosing to play the ball left-handed, my stance would be on a cart path, thus I am entitled to relief. I must take full relief from the cart path by choosing to take relief.

Question 1: If I still prefer to hit the ball left-handed, does full relief constitute relief such that I would not be entitled to relief from the cart path in both a left-handed and right-handed stance? Or only the left-handed stance?

I know that once I take full relief, I am then allowed to hit the ball right-handed if I prefer, even though that always seemed a bit screwy to me.

Question 2: Does the answer to the above change if I intend to hit the ball right-handed?

I also know that once I have taken relief from the cart path, it is possible that I will end up in an area where I would be entitled to relief for some other reason. In particular, my local course has several nets up to protect nearby condos, and it's common to be entitled to relief first from a cart path and then, after you take the nearest relief, the net. I'm supposed to take these one at a time.

Question 3: Given this, am I in fact allowed to take left-handed relief from the cart path, followed by, once that relief is completed, right-handed relief from the net? And then hit whatever shot I choose once I've taken relief? Or, do I have to declare, in effect, one shot I intend to play, take all relief applicable to that shot (even if that's in multiple stages) without changing the intended shot, then play whatever shot I prefer once the relief is completed?

Finally, my understanding is that the ruling for left-handed relief I mentioned above is predicated upon the idea that my "normal" swing is unavailable, meaning that I would not be entitled to relief if I had a normal right-handed swing available and the cart path was only an impediment to a left-handed stance. Meaning, strangely enough, that the presence of the tree is what allows me relief.

Question 4: How would this change if I were more legitimately a switch golfer? For example, based upon the way I hit my short irons, I've actually considered trying a round with right-handed long irons and woods and left-handed short irons. I haven't been willing to do that yet, reasoning that one swing is easier to learn than two, but if I did, and I were legitimately between, say, my right-handed 7 iron and left-handed 6 iron (which goes the distance of my right-handed 8 iron), would I be entitled to relief if I could use either club and one of the two shots were obstructed but the other were unobstructed? If so, would my relief need to be until I could hit both shots? Just the one I took relief from? Or am I supposed to decide what I consider the most natural shot I would play and then take relief on that basis?

#6 leithbones

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Posted 16 April 2011 - 06:43 PM

Your understanding of the rules exceeds most Ams.
Ball under tree where my only play would be left-handed. By choosing to play the ball left-handed, my stance would be on a cart path, thus I am entitled to relief. I must take full relief from the cart path by choosing to take relief.
Question 1: If I still prefer to hit the ball left-handed, does full relief constitute relief such that I would not be entitled to relief from the cart path in both a left-handed and right-handed stance? Or only the left-handed stance?
You're taking relief for a left handed shot; if you were a lefty (which you are for this lie) it does not matter whether you've achieved full relief for a right handed shot. Just relief from stance in which you were interfered.

I know that once I take full relief, I am then allowed to hit the ball right-handed if I prefer, even though that always seemed a bit screwy to me. Golf Rules are screwy. Learn it, live it.

Question 2: Does the answer to the above change if I intend to hit the ball right-handed? When? Under the tree, or after relief? You address that below.

I also know that once I have taken relief from the cart path, it is possible that I will end up in an area where I would be entitled to relief for some other reason. In particular, my local course has several nets up to protect nearby condos, and it's common to be entitled to relief first from a cart path and then, after you take the nearest relief, the net. I'm supposed to take these one at a time. (Correct)

Question 3: Given this, am I in fact allowed to take left-handed relief from the cart path (if you're only attempting a left handed shot in order to gain relief from an immovable obstruction, you won't get it from me or most Rules Officials; see USGA Rule 24-2b EXCEPTION), followed by, once that relief is completed, right-handed relief from the net? And then hit whatever shot I choose once I've taken relief? (Yup. Since you're a natural righty, it doesn't matter how you came to have interference by the net-- you're entitled to relief) Or, do I have to declare, in effect, one shot I intend to play, take all relief applicable to that shot (even if that's in multiple stages) without changing the intended shot, then play whatever shot I prefer once the relief is completed? No. See USGA Decision 13-2/1.5 The act of lifting/dropping changes your circumstances, so you are allowed, in effect, to change your mind, club selection, direction of shot, etc. for each successive lie.

Finally, my understanding is that the ruling for left-handed relief I mentioned above is predicated upon the idea that my "normal" swing is unavailable, meaning that I would not be entitled to relief if I had a normal right-handed swing available and the cart path was only an impediment to a left-handed stance (Yes Very Good, 24-2b exception above). Meaning, strangely enough, that the presence of the tree is what allows me relief. No, the presence of the tree is not what allows relief; the cart path allows for relief-- the presence of the trees forced a necessarily unusual stance in light of the circumstance, which then put your stance on an immovable obstruction.

Question 4: How would this change if I were more legitimately a switch golfer? For example, based upon the way I hit my short irons, I've actually considered trying a round with right-handed long irons and woods and left-handed short irons. I haven't been willing to do that yet, reasoning that one swing is easier to learn than two, but if I did, and I were legitimately between, say, my right-handed 7 iron and left-handed 6 iron (which goes the distance of my right-handed 8 iron), would I be entitled to relief if I could use either club and one of the two shots were obstructed but the other were unobstructed? If so, would my relief need to be until I could hit both shots? Just the one I took relief from? Or am I supposed to decide what I consider the most natural shot I would play and then take relief on that basis?
This is easily addressed under Rule 35, "Alien Abductions, Mid-Round Amputation, and Improbable Body Cavity Ball Impaction&Removal." While the Rules are able to address most situations, some are so farfetched and unlikely that codifying them in the Holy Writ Of The Links would be a grave traveshamockery. However..
were I to encounter Mac O'Grady reincarnated as described above, I would initially be extremely receptive to his club selection in light of the fact that he has alternating right&left clubs. His knowledge of the rules would aid him in receiving some very generous and favorable rulings. Nevertheless, a pattern of attempted rules exploitation based on the unique makeup of his golf bag might result in fewer decisions to his liking.

Set up for the shot you're truly planning on playing; I'm going to imagine you hitting that shot without interference by the obstruction. If what you show me would be a reasonable effort without the obstruction present, then you'll be more likely to be granted relief from the obstruction with the stance/direction/area of intended swing you demonstrated (See USGA Decision 24-2b/18). Following your lift/clean/drop, it starts fresh, and you can go about your business as if your ball had landed at your relief lie as the result of a previous shot; it's now in play, no different than any other ball.
Eric




#7 CSteinhardt


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Posted 12 May 2011 - 02:01 PM

There are times I really hate having read the rules mostly, but not carefully enough.

Had a chance to break 80 for the first time on a "real" course (I shot a 78 once on a par-69 that was about 5000 yards, and I've broken it several times on a par-62). Need to finish +1 on the last two, a reachable par 5 and a long par 4. Hit my second shot on the par 5 right, not quite into the water but into a mud bank that's inside the margin of the hazard. Go up, find the ball completely covered in mud and with no stance, but otherwise a pretty reasonable 20 yard pitch if I hit it left-handed, and I do carry a lefty wedge. I feel I should be able to find some part of the green with most of the time, and that it's my better chance to make par because I'm short-sided and don't expect to get up and down after taking a drop. Hack it out pretty well, actually, leave myself about a 20 footer, and when I clean my ball, I discover it's not mine.

The other three people in my group tried to convince me that hitting the wrong ball in a hazard is no penalty, because you can't identify it properly. (To be fair, two of them were of the opinion that you don't bother with the rules anyway if you have a chance to shoot a good score). Ended up finding my ball near where the other one was, also in the mud with with no stance whatsoever. Took the drop, made triple, but parred the last and ended up shooting 81.

What I didn't remember until after I hit it is that even in the hazard, I have the right to pick up that ball and clean off enough of it to identify whether it is my ball. Had I done so, I would have avoided this (although there's no guarantee I would have been able to play 18 the same way).

While I'm at it, I'd like to ask for some advice from some of the more experienced golfers in this thread. Basically, my swing flaws seem to be maximized when I hit fairway woods. Distance isn't generally my problem, except on the longest courses, but direction definitely is. I'm comfortable hitting long irons. I also seem to have my irons stack together a bit in terms of distance; I hit a pitching wedge about 140, but I hit a 5 iron 200.

As a result, I find myself hitting only a few different clubs (with average distances for a well-struck shot) a typical round:

- Driver (255)
- 4 iron (215)
- 5 iron (200)
- 6 iron (180)
- 7 iron (165)
- 9 iron (150)
- wedge (140)
- gap wedge (125)
- lob wedge (50 or so, but mainly around the greens)
- putter

I probably hit the gap wedge more than any other club. This means I've got a lot of extra room to carry clubs I'll only rarely hit, which is part of why I've carried some left-handed clubs and stuff in the past. I'm trying to figure out what else to have in the bag that will help out the most. It would be nice to have something for the gap between my 4 iron and driver, although when I lay up on a par 5 I'm usually laying up with something less than 4 iron so I can have a full shot. At one point I carried a sand wedge, a 64, and a lefty wedge for trouble shots, but I felt really silly with 6 wedges in the bag. I tried a 2i hybrid, but found I was hitting it the same distance as my 4 iron, but with less accuracy. It's also a problem off the tee, because the only thing I have safer than a driver is the 4 iron, which loses a lot of distance.

I'm about a 15 handicap, and I probably lose about 10 strokes per round to wayward shots and about 5 to poor distance control, the bulk of that on shots inside 100 yards (hence the 6 wedges). On the other hand, as I start to play tougher courses, I find the lack of a longer club is costing me strokes. For example, the other day I popped up the driver a bit on a 420 yard par 4, a little into the wind, and with two bunkers in front found that I had to lay up. Any recommendations? I'd be grateful for any advice.

#8 Freddy Linn


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Posted 12 May 2011 - 05:15 PM

There are times I really hate having read the rules mostly, but not carefully enough.

Had a chance to break 80 for the first time on a "real" course (I shot a 78 once on a par-69 that was about 5000 yards, and I've broken it several times on a par-62). Need to finish +1 on the last two, a reachable par 5 and a long par 4. Hit my second shot on the par 5 right, not quite into the water but into a mud bank that's inside the margin of the hazard. Go up, find the ball completely covered in mud and with no stance, but otherwise a pretty reasonable 20 yard pitch if I hit it left-handed, and I do carry a lefty wedge. I feel I should be able to find some part of the green with most of the time, and that it's my better chance to make par because I'm short-sided and don't expect to get up and down after taking a drop. Hack it out pretty well, actually, leave myself about a 20 footer, and when I clean my ball, I discover it's not mine.

The other three people in my group tried to convince me that hitting the wrong ball in a hazard is no penalty, because you can't identify it properly. (To be fair, two of them were of the opinion that you don't bother with the rules anyway if you have a chance to shoot a good score). Ended up finding my ball near where the other one was, also in the mud with with no stance whatsoever. Took the drop, made triple, but parred the last and ended up shooting 81.

What I didn't remember until after I hit it is that even in the hazard, I have the right to pick up that ball and clean off enough of it to identify whether it is my ball. Had I done so, I would have avoided this (although there's no guarantee I would have been able to play 18 the same way).

While I'm at it, I'd like to ask for some advice from some of the more experienced golfers in this thread. Basically, my swing flaws seem to be maximized when I hit fairway woods. Distance isn't generally my problem, except on the longest courses, but direction definitely is. I'm comfortable hitting long irons. I also seem to have my irons stack together a bit in terms of distance; I hit a pitching wedge about 140, but I hit a 5 iron 200.

As a result, I find myself hitting only a few different clubs (with average distances for a well-struck shot) a typical round:

- Driver (255)
- 4 iron (215)
- 5 iron (200)
- 6 iron (180)
- 7 iron (165)
- 9 iron (150)
- wedge (140)
- gap wedge (125)
- lob wedge (50 or so, but mainly around the greens)
- putter

I probably hit the gap wedge more than any other club. This means I've got a lot of extra room to carry clubs I'll only rarely hit, which is part of why I've carried some left-handed clubs and stuff in the past. I'm trying to figure out what else to have in the bag that will help out the most. It would be nice to have something for the gap between my 4 iron and driver, although when I lay up on a par 5 I'm usually laying up with something less than 4 iron so I can have a full shot. At one point I carried a sand wedge, a 64, and a lefty wedge for trouble shots, but I felt really silly with 6 wedges in the bag. I tried a 2i hybrid, but found I was hitting it the same distance as my 4 iron, but with less accuracy. It's also a problem off the tee, because the only thing I have safer than a driver is the 4 iron, which loses a lot of distance.

I'm about a 15 handicap, and I probably lose about 10 strokes per round to wayward shots and about 5 to poor distance control, the bulk of that on shots inside 100 yards (hence the 6 wedges). On the other hand, as I start to play tougher courses, I find the lack of a longer club is costing me strokes. For example, the other day I popped up the driver a bit on a 420 yard par 4, a little into the wind, and with two bunkers in front found that I had to lay up. Any recommendations? I'd be grateful for any advice.



A few thoughts:

- I'd love to know the lofts of your wedges. Assuming the 64 degree is your 50 yard club, and your gap wedge is about 52 degrees, I would carry a 56 and a 60, or whatever lofts get you to the following: 125 (gap), 100, 80, 50.
- Drop the lefty wedge. If you can hit that you are coordinated enough to turn a sand wedge over.
- If you hit your irons well pick up a 3i, or give different hybrids another shot. I would look at steel shafts in the hybrids if you are a relatively strong iron player. I hate graphite in my hybrids.
- Get an 8 iron. It is interesting that there is only a 15 yard gap between 7 and 9. Even if there is, pick one up and consider getting your lofts bent to get a proper spacing.

That would get you to:

- Driver (255)
- 3 iron/hybrid
- 4 iron (215)
- 5 iron (200)
- 6 iron (180)
- 7 iron (165)
- 8 iron
- 9 iron (150)
- wedge (140)
- gap wedge (125)
- 56 (100)
- 60 (75-80)
- lob wedge (50 or so, but mainly around the greens)
- putter

There is no reason not to carry 14 right-handed clubs, especially as a 15. It's like playing piano with seven fingers.

#9 CSteinhardt


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Posted 13 May 2011 - 02:41 PM

Thanks for the advice - really appreciate it!

A few thoughts:

- I'd love to know the lofts of your wedges. Assuming the 64 degree is your 50 yard club, and your gap wedge is about 52 degrees, I would carry a 56 and a 60, or whatever lofts get you to the following: 125 (gap), 100, 80, 50.


The gap wedge is a 50, so I could carry a 56, 60, and 64. When I did that before, I found I'd almost never end up hitting the 56 or 60. I think part of my problem is that I swing far, far too hard at the ball, having come over from baseball. I've improved a lot by taking what I see as a half-swing, and people I play with still say I'm swinging harder than anybody they've ever played with. This means that a full swing with my 64 gets its distance by basically going straight up, and if I mis-hit it a little bit, it can go pretty much anywhere. My tendency to hit short irons straight up is probably also why the 8 iron doesn't seem to ever get used.

- Drop the lefty wedge. If you can hit that you are coordinated enough to turn a sand wedge over.


Probably true; it's more that I didn't have anything else to replace it with.

- If you hit your irons well pick up a 3i, or give different hybrids another shot. I would look at steel shafts in the hybrids if you are a relatively strong iron player. I hate graphite in my hybrids.


Is there a particular hybrid you like? I had been trying a Nickent 2i, but it was going around the same distance as my 4 iron, with some really ugly misses. I guess the other option is just getting a 2 iron or something. Do people even make 1/2 irons these days? My irons started with 4, though I think a 3 might be available as an add-on.

Do you hit hybrid off the tee?

#10 Freddy Linn


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Posted 13 May 2011 - 10:33 PM

Thanks for the advice - really appreciate it!



The gap wedge is a 50, so I could carry a 56, 60, and 64. When I did that before, I found I'd almost never end up hitting the 56 or 60. I think part of my problem is that I swing far, far too hard at the ball, having come over from baseball. I've improved a lot by taking what I see as a half-swing, and people I play with still say I'm swinging harder than anybody they've ever played with. This means that a full swing with my 64 gets its distance by basically going straight up, and if I mis-hit it a little bit, it can go pretty much anywhere. My tendency to hit short irons straight up is probably also why the 8 iron doesn't seem to ever get used.



Probably true; it's more that I didn't have anything else to replace it with.



Is there a particular hybrid you like? I had been trying a Nickent 2i, but it was going around the same distance as my 4 iron, with some really ugly misses. I guess the other option is just getting a 2 iron or something. Do people even make 1/2 irons these days? My irons started with 4, though I think a 3 might be available as an add-on.

Do you hit hybrid off the tee?


I wonder if you use the 64 a lot around the greens when the 56 and 60 would be more effective in getting the ball on the green as quickly as possible. I carried a 64 years ago and fell into a trap of using it habitually and flying the ball to the hole. If you aren't using it around the greens at all, and it is purely for the 50-yard approach, as you say you need to find a club to hit off the tee that isn't a driver or 4-iron, and get rid of the need to have a dependable 50-yard club. There is virtually no shot I can't pull off with a 60 or even a 58 versus a 64. My recommendation would be to drop it while finding a 3-wood to hit from the box.

I have a 19 degree Titleist 585H hybrid that I use off the tee for par 3's between 205-215. Steel shaft, because I feel like hybrids need to perform more like irons than woods, and I will sacrifice distance for accuracy. I was a pretty decent long iron player (I own a one-iron) but there is no comparison with the right hybrid, and my longest iron now is a 4-iron. You should be able to get a 3 iron no problem, a 2 iron is going to be a real challenge depending on the set.

If this helps, these are my stock distances, which is the spacing you probably want to get to:

Driver: 260
strong 3W: 230
4W: 215
hybrid: 205
4i: 185
5i: 175
6i: 165
7i: 155
8i: 145
9i: 130
PW: 120
52: 100
58: 80


Your 4 iron at 215 and 7 iron at 165 is a red flag for me, seems like you are losing a club of distance in between somehow. I would think about getting fitted for shafts (proper shafts are 80% of the equation, the clubhead is far less important in my opinion), maybe with higher kickpoints and maybe stiffer or heavier. Without knowing your ball flight and divot patterns this is tough.

#11 Comfortably Lomb


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Posted 14 May 2011 - 02:32 PM

*snip*

- Driver (255)
- 4 iron (215)
- 5 iron (200)
- 6 iron (180)
- 7 iron (165)
- 9 iron (150)
- wedge (140)
- gap wedge (125)
- lob wedge (50 or so, but mainly around the greens)
- putter

*snip*

I'm about a 15 handicap, and I probably lose about 10 strokes per round to wayward shots and about 5 to poor distance control, the bulk of that on shots inside 100 yards (hence the 6 wedges). On the other hand, as I start to play tougher courses, I find the lack of a longer club is costing me strokes. For example, the other day I popped up the driver a bit on a 420 yard par 4, a little into the wind, and with two bunkers in front found that I had to lay up. Any recommendations? I'd be grateful for any advice.


Just a thought: exactly how hard are you swinging your irons? Your yardages with them are long, very long actually. What I'm thinking is that you're trying to crush them (and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong) but that's not something you want to do when you can just swing a little easier and grab more club. 150 with a 9-iron? That's somewhat monstrous but if you're not accurate then what's the point?

#12 bostonbeerbelly

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 08:41 AM

Anyone have a recommendation for a golf gps app for the iPhone? I have the golf logix free one downloaded but did not know about any of the $20-$40 apps if they were worth it.

#13 CSteinhardt


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Posted 18 May 2011 - 08:45 PM

Just a thought: exactly how hard are you swinging your irons? Your yardages with them are long, very long actually. What I'm thinking is that you're trying to crush them (and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong) but that's not something you want to do when you can just swing a little easier and grab more club. 150 with a 9-iron? That's somewhat monstrous but if you're not accurate then what's the point?


I've been told I swing really, really hard. I feel like I'm taking about a half-swing, coming over from baseball. Then again, I was always a Rob Deer, low-average but high-power type of hitter, too...

Incidentally, I'm visiting Boston again this weekend and have nothing scheduled for Saturday. Anybody up for golf?

#14 PedroSpecialK


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  • 16,989 posts

Posted 25 May 2011 - 01:52 PM

Played my first round of the year today at Red Tail. The course was totally empty, was able to clock in at 3:05 playing with my father. I have been hitting the range, so my irons and woods were solid. Putting was a different story. I shot an 88 with 41 putts, which wasn't unexpected - was very happy with my ballstriking. Heck, I even drove #17 from the silvers. I am contemplating picking up another wedge or changing up my wedge allocation altogether.

D: 300
3W: 240-250
5W: 225
3I: 220 (on the rare occasion I make good contact - usually about 180)
4I: 210
5I: 200
6I: 190
7I: 175
8I: 165
9I: 155
PW: 145
52: 130
58: 105
P

I'm considering ditching my 3 iron and 52 and rolling with a 62, 58, 54 combo - I can control my PW well enough to bridge the gap between that and the 52 right now, but I have a serious gap between the 52 and 58 that's killing my approach game. I am slightly concerned with the PW-54 gap vs. PW-52, but I feel like that's a 5 yard increment between 125-130 with which I'd have a bit of trouble.

Best part of today was that I couldn't miss with my driver (Titleist 983K 8.5 degree with Fujikura X-Flex) no matter how hard I swung. If that keeps up, I expect to shave a couple strokes this summer.

#15 FL4WL3SS


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  • 6,256 posts

Posted 25 May 2011 - 02:08 PM

I just put a 60 degree in my bag last month for the first time and can't recommend it enough. A 62 seems a bit much, however.

The 60 has taken a lot of getting used to, I don't swing nearly hard enough on pitch shots and constantly come up short. I have to learn how to use it, but it has been a good weapon on several occasions. Especially out of tight bunker lies.

#16 Bongorific

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Posted 26 May 2011 - 12:32 PM

Speaking of clubs to carry, I need help rounding out a new set. Papa Bongo won a closest to the pin in a charity tournament this week and the prize was a set of Nike VR Pro Cavity irons. He just got new irons two years ago and needs extra long shafts due to his height so he gave me the Nike irons. Awesome gift as I've been playing the same Spalding Ezx irons for about 12 years. I've been wanting to get new irons and fairway woods for awhile.

The new irons are 4-A, adding the extra wedge in place of a 3 iron. On one hand it does make sense to include 2 wedges for improving players as they'll probably get more use out of it than a 3i. However, Nike probably also does it so you have to buy the matching hybrid.

On average I shoot around +14-+20 depending on the course. Right now I carry D, 5w, 3-P, G, S. I hit my old 3i around 185 and the 5w 200. Even though I'm a bogey golfer, I hit irons more consistently than fairway woods, so I don't think I'd want a 7w or anything goofy like that. Should I look into a hybrid and, if so, what loft? Is it better to get the matching VR Pro hybrid so I'm looking at a similar profile at address? Or should I get a 3i from a different company/set? I might also look into buying a new 3w and 5w, so any recommendations there as well would be helpful.

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#17 Saints Rest

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Posted 26 May 2011 - 02:07 PM

I bought new Callaway clubs a year ago and can't hit the driver for shit. I think the issue may be the stiff shaft since when I got fitted, he felt I was right in between the stiff shaft and the Callaway Regular-Flex (or whatever it is called). He put me on the Veri-Flex for the irons and stiff for the driver and 5W. The 5W is great; I hit it about as consistently as anything in my bag. But with the driver, I can never seem to finish the swing, leaving the clubface open at impact. Anyone have any thoughts?
EDIT: My swing speed is in the mid-upper 80's.

Edited by Saints Rest, 26 May 2011 - 02:08 PM.


#18 Freddy Linn


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Posted 27 May 2011 - 11:43 AM

I bought new Callaway clubs a year ago and can't hit the driver for shit. I think the issue may be the stiff shaft since when I got fitted, he felt I was right in between the stiff shaft and the Callaway Regular-Flex (or whatever it is called). He put me on the Veri-Flex for the irons and stiff for the driver and 5W. The 5W is great; I hit it about as consistently as anything in my bag. But with the driver, I can never seem to finish the swing, leaving the clubface open at impact. Anyone have any thoughts?
EDIT: My swing speed is in the mid-upper 80's.


The stiff shaft could very well be too stiff, although Callaway used to have a reputation for having shafts on the weaker side. Your driver may also be a little too long. A quick fix might be to choke up on it to better square it at impact.

#19 Number45forever

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Posted 12 July 2011 - 06:20 PM

http://www.vtga.org/...oreboardrd1.pdf

This is after day one of the Vermont Amateur. I'm Wilkinson, in with a 78. By my counting I'm tied for 53rd out of 114. Top 40 and ties after tomorrow's round make the cut for 36 holes on Thursday.

My round went well enough. I drove into a hazard on #3 and made double. And I lost my swing in the middle and made 3 bogeys in 4 holes. But I'm proud of how I bounced back. After the double I hit a 5-iron to 12 feet and made birdie on #4, and after those 3 bogeys I closed with five consecutive pars. I'll probably need 75 or 76 to make the cut, and that's easily doable for me.

This is my first state Amateur, it's been a lot of fun, no matter what happens.

#20 Sheets

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Posted 14 July 2011 - 06:42 PM

Anyone have a recommendation for a golf gps app for the iPhone? I have the golf logix free one downloaded but did not know about any of the $20-$40 apps if they were worth it.



http://golfshot.com/

Golfshot. I just got it 2 days ago and used it for the first time yesterday. $30. It's awesome. I can't wait to play a few more rounds so I can really start spotting some trends in my game.

I read a number of reviews of some different ones and this one always rated well, and I can see why. The one complaint was that it really drained the battery, but I didn't have this problem as I only played nine.

#21 jercra

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Posted 15 July 2011 - 04:38 PM

Anyone have a recommendation for a golf gps app for the iPhone? I have the golf logix free one downloaded but did not know about any of the $20-$40 apps if they were worth it.

I know it's not directly in answer to the question at hand but it's related so I'll throw it out there anyway. On Android phones I've used Golf Logix and found that the beating it put on my battery wasn't worth the additional flashy graphics and it updated distances slowly. I switched to an app called Free Caddie which was, you guessed it, free. It gives me front, back and middle numbers (you can get more if you get the pro version). It's a black background with large white text. My battery will now make it through 36 holes on a single charge.

My brother keeps his handicap through OOB Golf and says he also gets 36 holes from the same phone as me using their GPS ($20). I don't know if either is available on an iPhone.

#22 The Long Tater

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Posted 16 July 2011 - 07:15 PM

Recommendations on Boston area courses?

I'm going to be spending a week in Cambridge in early August for family reasons. I will be free during the days and would like to try to get in some golf. I grew up in that area but didn't take up the game until after I moved away, so I know nothing about courses. I will have a car. So, any suggestions of places to play within an hour or so of the Longfellow Bridge?

Thanks.

#23 bostonbeerbelly

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Posted 16 July 2011 - 07:54 PM

Recommendations on Boston area courses?

I'm going to be spending a week in Cambridge in early August for family reasons. I will be free during the days and would like to try to get in some golf. I grew up in that area but didn't take up the game until after I moved away, so I know nothing about courses. I will have a car. So, any suggestions of places to play within an hour or so of the Longfellow Bridge?

Thanks.




I will just start this off with what I may consider my home course right now. The meadow at Peabody. It is a great muni up in Peabody (as you may have guessed) it is easy to get too off 95/128. I have more recommendations but they would be dependent on how much you wanted to spend and how difficult of a course you are looking to play.

#24 The Long Tater

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 08:11 AM

I will just start this off with what I may consider my home course right now. The meadow at Peabody. It is a great muni up in Peabody (as you may have guessed) it is easy to get too off 95/128. I have more recommendations but they would be dependent on how much you wanted to spend and how difficult of a course you are looking to play.



Thank you.

I don't mind some difficulty. I try to pay under $100 but make exceptions on vacation.

#25 grsharky7

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 10:57 AM

Shot a 84 this morning at Indian Lake Golf Club here in PA. I was invited to go by a member, so I was pretty stoked to go. It is the first course Arnold Palmer ever designed so it is fairly tough. The greens were like pavement this morning and I cost myself about 6 or 7 strokes right there.

#26 leithbones

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 10:54 AM

You can reach some excellent bargains in Southern NH (93N or 3N) easily within an hour if you're driving at the right time of day, or right day of the week. Salem, Manchester, Portsmouth, and Nashua all have some great course values. You won't typically be dealing with the congested conditions found closer to town. Well under $100.
Live free or die.

Thank you.

I don't mind some difficulty. I try to pay under $100 but make exceptions on vacation.



#27 Mr Weebles


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Posted 19 July 2011 - 08:08 AM

So it looks like I'll be taking up golf. My brother just bought a new set of clubs and is giving me his old ones to get started. Some guys at work play and they've said they'll take me out with them.

Here's the problem: I don't know one fucking thing about the game of golf. What do I need to buy to get started? Should I hit a driving range first? Take a lesson? Seriously, I know absolutely zero.

#28 bostonbeerbelly

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 09:32 AM




This will give you an idea of what you are getting into.

In all seriousness good luck, you need a lot of patience and the ability to laugh at yourself. It is a rewarding game once you start to get the hang of things.

But yeah go to the range take some crack at balls if you enjoy it and think it is something you want to get into, sign up for 2-3 lessons and have someone teach you the right grip, swing, and such before you get into bad habits that are very difficult to break.

#29 jercra

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 09:56 AM

So it looks like I'll be taking up golf. My brother just bought a new set of clubs and is giving me his old ones to get started. Some guys at work play and they've said they'll take me out with them.

Here's the problem: I don't know one fucking thing about the game of golf. What do I need to buy to get started? Should I hit a driving range first? Take a lesson? Seriously, I know absolutely zero.

Seconded on the range. I recently taught a co-worker how to play and we spent a couple of days a week at the range hitting balls for a couple of months before hitting the course. If you've got someone you know and like to get you going it's a cheaper alternative to lessons at the start. No need to pay a pro to teach you the grip and the basics if you have a single digit friend or someone like that around IMO. My co-corker also found watching instructional videos on YouTube to extremely helpful. If you've got the time you can find some really excellent swing thoughts that way. Now that he's a few months in and has an idea of what he's doing right and wrong he's signed up for lessons with a pro.

Finally, one of the things people always seem to leave out is instructions in etiquette and rules. I had my friend ride around with me for 9 holes with no clubs just to explain to him when to be quiet, when to get the flag, not to walk on people's lines on the green, pace of play, etc. It may not sound like a big deal but it is. Most importantly, have patience. You won't be good overnight. I've been teaching my friend for 6 months now and he's almost to the point where he can go 18 without picking his ball up on a hole.

#30 William Robertson

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 12:54 PM

I'll remove this if it's not kosher, but just fyi for the Southern contingent, in the face value ticket swap forum, I have posted the availablity, at a discount, of two badges for Friday, August 12, for the PGA Championship at Atlanta Athletic Club. My schedule issues can save somebody about 50 bucks.

#31 Yaz4Ever


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Posted 28 July 2011 - 05:33 PM

Backyard putting greens - anyone have first-hand knowledge about them? I'm looking at getting a synthetic green, roughly 650 square feet in size, and two sand traps. A buddy of mine is a landscaper and is, as he says, dead as Kelsey's balls (never heard that phrase before) right now and is interested in possibly adding greens to his repertoire. He has never installed one, but it seems pretty straight-forward for someone with the equipment and (more importantly) the knowledge of how to use the equipment. He's doing the labor and materials at his cost (I'll pay his guys $10/hour and his cost on all materials), so I'm a little excited about this. I've got four kids, all of whom golf to some extent. My oldest is a rising sophmore in high school and she played on the varsity team as a freshman - they came in third in the state. Putting is her weakest area. The next oldest is 11, so this will get plenty of use for years to come. From what I've been told, shooting less than 80 on a regular basis will pretty much lock up a golf scholarship for her, so this is an investment on that end as well.

Anyhow, here's the kit I'm looking at - 720B. The areas I'm most concerned about are as follows:

1. Seaming the pieces together where necessary. I installed carpet for a few weeks in college, but they never had me do that. I'm sure it's easier than it looks, but a putting green with seams that affect the play of the ball will really suck.
2. Undulations. Where is the best placement for these and how big/small should I go based on the kit I'm looking at? I want this to not become too easy too quickly once we learn the breaks. I've really tried to stress the importance of reading the greens to the eldest - something she's been reticent to do enough of.
3. Trim. They offer synthetic trim for around the green, but I'm thinking about just leaving the natural grass back there instead. I realize it will cause wear and tear but it will also be somewhat more realistic (and save some money). Is this stupid of me?

I've got plenty of room back there, so I also plan to put in a few chipping areas at 40, 50, and 60 yards from the center of the green but from different angles. Any other thoughts/suggestions?

FYI, I had a local synthetic putting green guy quote me on two greens - 500 sq feet and 700 sq feet (approximate sizes) with one sand trap. The 500 was $8,200 and the 700 was $11,100. I should be able to get this job completely done for under $5,000. This guy says he puts in 10" of crush and run, rolled and watered every 2", and then tops it off with silica, which he also uses to create the undulations. From what I've read online, this seems like a bit of overkill. The most common depth of crush and run I've seen is about 3" with some advocating as many as 5 or 6". My landscaping buddy says 10" is what they'd use under a highway, but he's willing to use whatever specs I give him for this. I've also seen that many people use sandblasting sand. Not having a clue, what are the differences between it and silica, if any, and which would you suggest for both the base and for in the sand traps?

The only senior on last year's team received a scholarship to a small private college not far from here. She's getting $8,000 per year and averaged about 80 last year. She's also getting an academic scholarship of $20,000. This $32,000/year institution will cost her $4,000. I'm not holding my breath on the academic side for this child (I love her dearly, but she struggled with some of her honors classes and worked hard for her 3.17 GPA), but if she comes close to the golf side of the equation, this investment pays for itself with one kid, let alone the other three and improving my short game as well.

If there's interest, I'd be happy to include pictures as it goes in.

#32 Freddy Linn


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Posted 28 July 2011 - 09:31 PM

Backyard putting greens - anyone have first-hand knowledge about them? I'm looking at getting a synthetic green, roughly 650 square feet in size, and two sand traps.

<snip>

If there's interest, I'd be happy to include pictures as it goes in.


Sounds like a fun project - I would love to have one. Couple thoughts:

1) I would get the green speed up to 11. Two reasons - one, you will produce a better putter, and two, it is more fun. I'm willing to bet these slow down not insignificantly over the years.

2) 650 square feet seems small for hitting 60-yard pitches to (if this is the intention). If this is the final size, I might do two things - one, focus more on 20-40 yard "stations", and two, make sure the green is oriented optimally to receive these shots (i.e. deeper, no forced carry).

#33 Sheets

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Posted 30 July 2011 - 06:04 PM

http://golfshot.com/

Golfshot. I just got it 2 days ago and used it for the first time yesterday. $30. It's awesome. I can't wait to play a few more rounds so I can really start spotting some trends in my game.

I read a number of reviews of some different ones and this one always rated well, and I can see why. The one complaint was that it really drained the battery, but I didn't have this problem as I only played nine.


I've only been able to use this app twice but I'm very happy with it so far. It can send an email of the scorecard to you and your playing partners. An added bonus I wasnt initially aware of is they include short tutorial videos by Paul Azinger. After spotting trends in your game (missing fairways right, for example), it maps out a 4 week "Golfplan" for you to improve your game. As I said, it will be interesting to see the trends in my game after 10 rounds or so. It will also calculate a handicap for me, which I've never had.

The reports of it quickly draining the phone's battery are unfounded to me. My phone was at 45% after the last 4 hr 15 min round I played.


If there's interest, I'd be happy to include pictures as it goes in.


Please do, I'm jealous! And good luck to your daughter and her game.

#34 Yaz4Ever


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Posted 11 August 2011 - 03:09 PM

Turf was delivered today - 15' x 48'. My buddy and I have decided to skip the seaming process and simply cut around the turf to create the look we want.

Excavator will be here tomorrow to dig for the base and the sand traps. I'll start taking pics soon and post them here for those who have expressed an interest.

#35 The Long Tater

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Posted 20 August 2011 - 08:12 AM

Turf was delivered today - 15' x 48'. My buddy and I have decided to skip the seaming process and simply cut around the turf to create the look we want.

Excavator will be here tomorrow to dig for the base and the sand traps. I'll start taking pics soon and post them here for those who have expressed an interest.



Would love to see the setup. My wife often talks about putting in one of these but I'm not sure.

#36 Yaz4Ever


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Posted 20 August 2011 - 09:00 AM

So far,

1. they've excavated the area for the green and two sand bunkers.
2. they've brought in 25 or so ton of crush and run (3/4" minus) and compacted it using plate compactors in 2" layers

Next on the agenda, weather permitting, is the top layer of the base - 1/4" minus (also called screenings)

Once that's down, the holes will be placed using a pole digger. I've got 5, so I'm basically looking to put them in the four corners (set in about 30" diagonally and once in the front center (roughly 5' from the front edge). This will allow for long putts from most every angle, allowing the undulations and slope to come into play.

Then the turf will be installed and the sand will be placed in the bunkers (which have rock on the bottom in the center for drainage and weed block or whatever they use to separate the white sand in the bunker from the dirt below it).

Hopefully, it will be usable by next weekend. Likely going to add some fringe and definitely going to add some nice landscaping around it, but likely not until November due to budget concerns as well as his schedule.

My buddy is installing all of this for me at his cost, so I'm not about to push him - no matter how anxious I am to use it or how much my wife has been bitching about the backyard "looking like shit" right now : )

Costs incurred thus far:

$3400 for the 15'x48' high quality putting turf along with 5 cup assemblies (sleeves, cups, flag poles, bases, and flags), includes delivery. This is, obviously, the biggest nut. For what it's worth, the actual measurement upon delivery was 15'8"x48'8", only including the actual green putting surface, not the unusable portion around the perimeter.
$400 for the excavator to come out and work on this for 2 days. The clay in my backyard is incredibly hard.
$147 plus tax to rent the two plate compactors from Home Depot for the day.
$195 for labor. One guy came out and hand groomed the stuff the excavator did for about 4 hours the other day, plus yesterday's two guys spreading and compacting the crush and run.

I haven't received the bill for the stone, screenings, or sand yet, but I'm estimating about $2,000 for this. Yes, I know I'm already over budget, but I'm still WELL under the other guy's bid of $11,100 which included about 20 fewer square feet (I know, big deal), only had 4 cups, and only had one sand bunker.



As for my daughter - school starts next Thursday, but the high school golf season has already begun. So far, she has shot a 46 at Bryan Park's Champions course (with a triple-bogey and a double-bogey which left her very disappointed) and a 44 at Greensboro Country Club's Farm course (which included 20 friggin' putts). Keep in mind, both of those rounds came after playing nine holes earlier in the day with a class. The course she shot a 46 on during her first match, she went back to the following day and shot a 42 before heading to the Farm course match. Next week, she won't be taking those classes and should be more relaxed and focused on the high school match.

Her coach has told me he expects to see her breaking 40 by the end of the season considering the growth he has seen in the past year. She turned 15 last week and has only been playing for a year and a half. Tuesday's match is the one I'm looking forward to the most thus far. She has only played this course once but really enjoyed it and shot her best score ever, at that time, a 93 over 18. Considering how much better she's gotten since then, I'm anxious to see how she does.

#37 Yaz4Ever


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Posted 09 September 2011 - 12:51 PM

Yeah, so I was looking forward to her playing that course. It didn't go well. She shot a 51. Her issue that day, and something she really needs to get over, is that she played as part of a foursome in which two girls completely sucked (triple-bogeying just about every hole before picking up). My daughter loses focus during these rounds - she never says anything to anyone nor show any signs of frustration to the other girls, but I know her well enough to know how the post-match ride home is going to be. Anyhow, she bounced back after that with a 44 and a 43 and was rewarded with moving up from the 4th position to the 3rd and playing tougher opponents. Took her to Pawley's Island last weekend (family vacation) and we played the Founder's Club course. She shot an 86 (her new low for 18 holes) and this week shot 44 and 42 during HS play.

Her putting, however, is still killing her. The 42 yesterday included 20 putts, the 44 included 21 putts, etc. Her other peripherals have been great - all but one drive onto the fairway yesterday and the one she missed was literally less than one foot to the left. Her GIR yesterday was a ridiculous (for her, anyhow) 66.7% - she's averaging about 30% right now. Her 2.14 putts per hole is what we're working on now.

Keep in mind, I say all of this as someone who has never broken 100 - mainly because I only play 3-4 times per year, I'm sure.

As for the putting green - fringe will be installed next Thursday. Bunkers are filled, holes are dug and cups are placed. The slope is a little more than I wanted, but there are ways to fix this so long as I get on the ball before the fringe is installed.

#38 Yaz4Ever


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Posted 15 September 2011 - 05:01 PM

Would love to see the setup. My wife often talks about putting in one of these but I'm not sure.


Fringe went on today. Here are a few pictures to give you an idea of what it looked like and looks like now.

Posted Image

I dug around that sprinkler head so he wouldn't hit it. I capped the line off outside of the putting green area - I might reroute it from the cap to get to the other side of the green if I choose to landscape with non-drought resistent items.


Posted Image

The first 50' swoop is done.


Posted Image

Here you can see the entire putting ground area (roughly 50'x17') as well as the initial digging of the front bunker. There's another bunker like it in the back.



and, this takes us to today (obviously cutting out all of the steps in between). If you'd like to see the full set of pics, let me know. I need to put them up on my buddy's website anyhow.

Posted Image

You can, obviously, tell that I need to landscape around this thing now. I'm planning a 2-3' ribbon of river rock/crushed stone around the entire perimeter. Also, in the barren area to the right, I'll be adding a few large boulders and some zebra grass. I'd also like to have lights put around this, but that's a project for another day - a day in which this thing is paid off.

I've got several large pieces of the fringe left that I plan to use as chipping mats around the backyard and some long narrow pieces of putting green that I plan to use for indoor putting mats. Waste not, want not.

She finished 9th out of 30+ girls in an 18-hole tournament yesterday (shot an 89). Her 35 putts and refusal to eat anything (crackers, even) kept her from scoring in the low 80s. She triple bogied the second to last hole (18) and double bogied the last hole (1). FTR, I've never broken 90, so I'm still impressed. Top girl, a senior from a nearby high school, shot a 68. Second place was 76.

#39 FL4WL3SS


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Posted 16 September 2011 - 08:18 AM

Holy shit that is fantastic, I'm moving in. Please have a lease agreement ready for me ASAP.

EDIT: P.S. If you have some extra putting surface that you're willing to sell, please let me know.

Edited by FL4WL3SS, 16 September 2011 - 08:22 AM.


#40 Yaz4Ever


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Posted 19 September 2011 - 08:09 PM

FL4L3SS - I've got decent size pieces of the fringe left, but not much of the putting green unless you want something really small. We used just about all of the 15'x48' putting green surface and he cut the fringe a little shorter around the perimeter than I would've, but it still looks nice. It varies between 18" and 2' around, but there was enough to add another 6-8" around most of it. I would've left it. No big deal, I'll cut the scrap fringe pieces and put them out at the 10-20-30-40 yard chipping areas and let the kids use them instead of beating up on my grass. Win-win.

#41 LoweTek

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 08:29 AM

Apologies for the capital letters guys. Pasted from an email I received:

THERE IS A GOLF OUTING SCHEDULED FOR OCTOBER 24th AT THE INTERNATIONAL GOLF CLUB
IN BOLTON MASSACHUSETTS TO HONOR TERRY FRANCONA AND HIS ACCOMPLISHMENTS AS
MANAGER OF THE RED SOX. $250.00 PER PERSON INCLUDES GOLF, LUNCH, RECEPTION, DRINKS
AND DINNER. PRIZES FOR TOP 3 TEAMS ON BOTH COURSES. (DINNER ONLY $125.) ALL PROCEEDS
WILL BENEFIT THE JIMMY FUND. CONTACT THE INTERNATIONAL AT 978-779-6910.

#42 Yaz4Ever


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Posted 02 November 2011 - 06:19 PM

I'm trying to establish a handicap for my teenage daughter. When I'm asked to put in the slope and rating of the course, it's usually a very straight-forward thing. Some rounds, however, she's playing from different tee boxes for each hole. For example, she qualified for states (NC) and played at Foxfire West on Monday and Tuesday. On a few holes, she played from the blue tees. On others, she played from the red tees. Other holes were from the white tees and the rest from the yellow tees. Is there anyway I can calculate the slope and rating for the entire round so I can input it to Golfshot (on my iPhone) or at a local course for handicapping purposes? I know that the total yardage was 5787 and I've got a list somewhere that tells me exactly which tees she played at each hole. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

#43 leithbones

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Posted 04 November 2011 - 07:21 AM

I'm trying to establish a handicap for my teenage daughter. When I'm asked to put in the slope and rating of the course, it's usually a very straight-forward thing. Some rounds, however, she's playing from different tee boxes for each hole. For example, she qualified for states (NC) and played at Foxfire West on Monday and Tuesday. On a few holes, she played from the blue tees. On others, she played from the red tees. Other holes were from the white tees and the rest from the yellow tees. Is there anyway I can calculate the slope and rating for the entire round so I can input it to Golfshot (on my iPhone) or at a local course for handicapping purposes? I know that the total yardage was 5787 and I've got a list somewhere that tells me exactly which tees she played at each hole. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!


You're going to have to piece together the data, but the USGA Handicapping rules anticipate your scenario Section 5-2g may also be used if a player plays a combination of tees.

#44 FL4WL3SS


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Posted 04 November 2011 - 07:46 AM

I'm trying to establish a handicap for my teenage daughter. When I'm asked to put in the slope and rating of the course, it's usually a very straight-forward thing. Some rounds, however, she's playing from different tee boxes for each hole. For example, she qualified for states (NC) and played at Foxfire West on Monday and Tuesday. On a few holes, she played from the blue tees. On others, she played from the red tees. Other holes were from the white tees and the rest from the yellow tees. Is there anyway I can calculate the slope and rating for the entire round so I can input it to Golfshot (on my iPhone) or at a local course for handicapping purposes? I know that the total yardage was 5787 and I've got a list somewhere that tells me exactly which tees she played at each hole. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Wow, that's awesome. Congratulations to both of you. Where in NC do you live? I've considered moving to Charlotte (I currently live in OH) so that I can get better weather during the winter and can play golf longer. I have the option to practice year-round here since there are a couple nice practice facilities with heated tees, but having the option to play practice rounds would be pretty nice.

EDIT: Also, we have a course named Foxfire here in Columbus too (actually two courses, one hacker course and one really nice one). Seems that golf course names are recycled pretty heavily from state to state.

Edited by FL4WL3SS, 04 November 2011 - 07:48 AM.


#45 Yaz4Ever


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Posted 04 November 2011 - 08:23 AM

Thanks leithbones, that's great information.

FL4WL3SS - I live just north of Greensboro. My brother-in-law lives just outside of Charlotte (Concord) and my in-laws live in Kannapolis. If you want any information about moving here, let me know. I'll help if I can.

#46 leithbones

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 12:05 PM

Here you go, hot off the press.
Principal Changes, 2012 USGA Rules of Golf , and New Decisions
This represents an unusually "Kinder, Gentler" quadrennial re-codification of the rules.
The entire 2012 Rules Book